tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-82094230580707947162024-02-19T10:23:30.115-05:00FixTheHouseHome repair articles from Fix The House instructor, Jim Kunselman
of AuldHausDoktor Consulting in Cleveland Heights, Ohio.auldhausdoktorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03678596017791302385noreply@blogger.comBlogger25125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8209423058070794716.post-33367373269150346582015-12-19T11:00:00.000-05:002015-12-19T11:18:45.713-05:00Residential Charging Stations for Electric Vehicles <div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<b><span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Residential Charging Stations for Electric Vehicles </span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">You may be considering buying an electric vehicle (EV), or plug-in hybrid vehicle. These vehicles will help lessen our reliance on imported fuels but will require yet another power source – electricity. The EVs are powered by a large battery pack that will need a home-based charging system in order to “re-fuel”.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In the Chevrolet Volt for example, the charger is installed in the vehicle, but other brands may have the chargers in garages or a weatherproof unit will stand outdoors along the driveway.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Regardless the placement, most garages and some older houses will need to be rewired to accommodate the charging equipment. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 10pt; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The EV charger should be on a ‘dedicated’ circuit, meaning no other fixture or appliance is on that circuit.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You wouldn’t want the circuit breaker to trip because someone used the garage door opener or turned on the lights.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The National Electric Code® (NEC), states a number of safety requirements including over-current trip, leakage current to ground protection (GFCI), and an automatic shut-off feature for when, not if someone drives off with the cable still plugged in to the car. </span><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 10pt; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Because the charger is operating for hours at a time, the following rule is in </span><a href="http://code.necplus.org/index.php?edition=7011&id=necss:70-2011:necs70-625.14"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: windowtext; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;">Section 625.14</span></b></a><span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> of the 2011 NEC®: <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">“Electric vehicle supply equipment shall have sufficient rating to supply the load served. For the purposes of this article, electric vehicle charging loads shall be considered to be <u>continuous</u> loads.”</i><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You should consult a licensed electrician to evaluate the capacity of your electric system to ensure that you are ready to install an EV charger.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Heavier wiring to the garage and possibly to the house may be required. Many electricians suggest that a 50 ampere </span><span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">(amps) </span>- 240 volt ser<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">vice run to the garage for a Lev<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">el 2 charger (see bel<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">ow)</span></span>.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 10pt; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJoowaGPCkHJ7OC3edWpYafNrCBEgmmNCOLVLvDqjHv7N9pBoLQfnMuByIvUtt0_VwmQ_XoBZS4jBP2jEH1_sQhWwXJd-MWAV6CFo5xdyidS5QcYTddOi3VqeMB7J9tKFf9bqbsl8aaMBW/s1600/SAE_org_J1772.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; cssfloat: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" r6="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJoowaGPCkHJ7OC3edWpYafNrCBEgmmNCOLVLvDqjHv7N9pBoLQfnMuByIvUtt0_VwmQ_XoBZS4jBP2jEH1_sQhWwXJd-MWAV6CFo5xdyidS5QcYTddOi3VqeMB7J9tKFf9bqbsl8aaMBW/s320/SAE_org_J1772.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: large;"> <span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">photo copyright: the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE.org)</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The charging methods have been standardized by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Approved in 1996; SAE Standard J1772, specifies three levels of chargers: 1, 2, and 3. Recent updates describe the design of a standard connector (plug) for attaching power to the EV at Levels 1 and 2. </span><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 10pt; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<b><span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> Level 1</span></b><span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">—The Level 1 charger is rated at 120 VAC and 20 amperes (amps) and will plug in to grounded electrical receptacle outlets. Charging at this level could take 8 to 24 hours to fully charge an EV, depending upon the battery size and its discharge level. This is not meant as the primary charging technique. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>SAE suggests that EVs carry a portable Level 1 unit so that they can plug into any available 120 VAC grounded receptacle for emergency or ‘top-off’ charging. </span><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 10pt; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<b><span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> Level 2</span></b><span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">—The Level 2 charger is to be used for everyday EV charging and is rated to run from a single-phase branch circuit, similar to an electric dryer circuit, operating at 240 VAC, at 30amps. Charging time at this rate will be from about 4 to 10 hours to fully charge the EV depending on its battery size and discharge level.</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 10pt; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<b><span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> Level 3</span></b><span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">— Level 3 standard is for “Fast Charging” similar to refueling at a service station. The charger is supplied by 480-VAC, three-phase equipment, and would reach a 50% charge in 10 to 15 minutes. A separate connector would supply DC from the off-board charger directly to the battery.</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 10pt; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">After many fits and false starts, it appears the EV era is now with us. The Tesla, Chevrolet Volt, and Nissan Leaf are now being sold in the U.S., and other manufacturers have products that will soon come to market.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Also, as in the early days of gas engine vehicles, people are constructing homebuilt EVs from existing cars, motorcycles, and trucks. So for drivers, it’s electrifying times ahead (pun intended).</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<br /></div>
auldhausdoktorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03678596017791302385noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8209423058070794716.post-55760655627002354512015-05-31T19:54:00.002-04:002015-07-03T08:27:31.106-04:00So why aren't you buying LED bulbs right now?<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="bodyCopyNormal"></span><span class="bodyCopyNormal">Hey, they're getting cheaper to buy and they're cheaper to use. I mean, what's the rub, Bub? With lifespan ratings of
approximately 25,000–50,000 hours, an LED bulb lasts 2 to 4
times longer than a compact fluorescent (CFL) bulb, and 20 to 40 times longer than a common
incandescent bulb.</span></span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="bodyCopyNormal">Let's look at the place where I work, the historic Old Stone Church (Presbyterian) on Cleveland's Public Square (see picture below). The small chandeliers under the balcony each used four 100 watt </span></span></span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="bodyCopyNormal">incandescent bulbs which were replaced with 10 watt LED bulbs rated at 800 lumens </span></span></span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="bodyCopyNormal">-- 2700 Kelvin.</span></span></span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtIBJZ74kYpUp4odJ0lSvY1D2H98ujDyO9cQIZR97PGbSPGgZ-N8iLGMQHTHmN2MMbtSFfAAxy2a2UOPRSgF1IU_UJIeM7hncC530p-1U9eUX3Bquf8X1qw327ZL_H_pEs-WKIH6bVEyEw/s1600/osc+sanctuary+2015.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtIBJZ74kYpUp4odJ0lSvY1D2H98ujDyO9cQIZR97PGbSPGgZ-N8iLGMQHTHmN2MMbtSFfAAxy2a2UOPRSgF1IU_UJIeM7hncC530p-1U9eUX3Bquf8X1qw327ZL_H_pEs-WKIH6bVEyEw/s320/osc+sanctuary+2015.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="bodyCopyNormal">The Kelvin number used here is the color of white light produced, 2700K is a warm white or yellowish. Higher numbers start become "cooler" or more blue-ish. We removed 360 watts from each of the ten small </span></span></span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="bodyCopyNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="bodyCopyNormal">chandeliers</span></span> (3600 watts)</span>. Despite having a lower lumen rating than the </span></span></span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="bodyCopyNormal">incandescent bulbs, the LEDs are noticeably brighter in the fixtures and generate much less heat.</span></span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="bodyCopyNormal"><br /></span></span></span>
<br />
<div class="bodyCopyNormal">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHGYTZKHVUOSSWWlTeQssmTrwNj5iGYLsjBzWfnj_6sVhVDwq5-mTf-hSVJcZtb7TtlCTf0Gw-XiHYq3xp6YVEWG70Gm3fywawGEGdSjPbPez0adSuAjwvjdcAhq_jnp-JVQkbGUo3hNfe/s1600/church.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHGYTZKHVUOSSWWlTeQssmTrwNj5iGYLsjBzWfnj_6sVhVDwq5-mTf-hSVJcZtb7TtlCTf0Gw-XiHYq3xp6YVEWG70Gm3fywawGEGdSjPbPez0adSuAjwvjdcAhq_jnp-JVQkbGUo3hNfe/s320/church.jpg" width="320" /></a><span class="bodyCopyNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The eight large </span></span></span><span class="bodyCopyNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="bodyCopyNormal">chandeliers in the sanctuary each held a number of </span></span></span></span></span></span><span class="bodyCopyNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="bodyCopyNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="bodyCopyNormal">incandescent </span></span></span>bulbs for a grand total of 38,600 watts. After the LED replacements were installed, a total 3800 watts are used for the </span></span></span></span></span></span><span class="bodyCopyNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">eight </span></span></span><span class="bodyCopyNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="bodyCopyNormal">chandeliers. So now we are using about one-tenth of the power requirement of the previous light bulbs to light the main area. And again, much less heat output and noticeably brighter.</span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div class="bodyCopyNormal">
<span class="bodyCopyNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="bodyCopyNormal"><br /></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div class="bodyCopyNormal">
<span class="bodyCopyNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="bodyCopyNormal">What the property management of the church looks for in this changeover is less labor costs as well as lower power usage. </span></span></span></span></span></span><span class="bodyCopyNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="bodyCopyNormal"><span class="bodyCopyNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="bodyCopyNormal">The more time between bulb replacements the better.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div class="bodyCopyNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="bodyCopyNormal">
<span class="bodyCopyNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="bodyCopyNormal"><span class="bodyCopyNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div class="bodyCopyNormal">
<span class="bodyCopyNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="bodyCopyNormal"><span class="bodyCopyNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div class="bodyCopyNormal">
<span class="bodyCopyNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="bodyCopyNormal"><span class="bodyCopyNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div class="bodyCopyNormal">
<span class="bodyCopyNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="bodyCopyNormal"><span class="bodyCopyNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div class="bodyCopyNormal">
<span class="bodyCopyNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="bodyCopyNormal"><span class="bodyCopyNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div class="bodyCopyNormal">
<span class="bodyCopyNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="bodyCopyNormal"><span class="bodyCopyNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div class="bodyCopyNormal">
<span class="bodyCopyNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="bodyCopyNormal"><span class="bodyCopyNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="bodyCopyNormal"></span></span></span></span></span></span>The process of changing bulbs in the </span></span></span></span></span></span><span class="bodyCopyNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">large </span></span></span><span class="bodyCopyNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="bodyCopyNormal">chandeliers requires someone to climb up five stories into the bell tower and crawl hands and knees through the ceiling on a narrow plywood ramp to each fixture. A cable is unplugged and a hand-crank hoist lowers the </span></span></span></span></span></span><span class="bodyCopyNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="bodyCopyNormal">chandelier so that the bulbs can changed while standing on the floor. Then reverse the process to take </span></span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">the</span></span><span class="bodyCopyNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="bodyCopyNormal"> chandeliers back up. There are other fixtures in the parish building that require a scaffold to be assembled to reach the bulbs. So if you're not very fond of climbing, LED bulbs are the way to go.</span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<span class="bodyCopyNormal"></span><br />auldhausdoktorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03678596017791302385noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8209423058070794716.post-9854865340037699052015-05-26T00:06:00.000-04:002015-05-26T08:16:59.166-04:00GAS-POWERED TOOL MAINTENANCE<style type="text/css">P { margin-right: -0.15in; margin-bottom: 0in; }</style><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"> Giving regular attention to tools with gasoline engines (snowblowers, weed trimmers, edgers, and lawn mowers) will prolong their lives and simplify yours – with lower repair and replacement costs. It’s especially important to prepare these tools properly before using them each season, and to store them properly when the season for their use comes to a close. <br /><br /> BEFORE YOU USE A TOOL AT THE BEGINNING OF THE SEASON:</span></span> <span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Make sure the tool is clean. For mowers, sharpen or replace any blade that is worn, bent or damaged, so the grass will be cut cleanly, not torn. Clean any old grass from under the mower deck, and coat the area with a rust-inhibiting spray lube (WD-40™, Teflon, or silicone spray), so you can easily clean the deck between cuttings to prevent rusting or pitting. Be sure to lubricate any moving parts (wheels, throttle control and cable, etc.)<br /> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">If you didn’t clean or replace the air filter before storing it at the end of last season, do so now. If it’s a sponge-type filter, wash it with some liquid dish soap, then squeeze about a teaspoon of motor oil into it so it will collect dust effectively. Install a new spark plug (take the old one with you to the store, so you can buy the proper replacement) and, on four-stroke engines, change the oil – even if you changed it at the end of last season – to clean from the crankcase the acids and impurities caused by combustion, and moisture from condensation. Do not overfill the oil.<br /> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">If the motor will not start, despite the above maintenance, here are a couple of things to check. First, ensure that there is “spark” (the voltage that arcs across the spark plug gap). One way to test is to remove the wire from the spark plug, remove the plug from the motor, and then replace the wire onto the end of the freed plug. With insulated pliers, hold the plug against the motor fins, and pull the starter cord several times. If there is no spark, ignition parts will need to be replaced (this will probably be a repair shop job). If there is a spark, then it’s likely that the problem is in the fuel delivery.</span></span> <span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">If you didn’t drain the gas tank before last winter’s storage, or didn’t use a fuel stabilizer (like Stabil™), the gas may have evaporated into a varnish-like coating – and clogged the carburetor. Before taking the mower to a repair shop, try the following routine: </span></span> <span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /><br /> Start by ensuring that the work area is well ventilated, with no flames or smoking items nearby. Gasoline and fuel additives are extremely flammable. Put down some cardboard and paper to absorb any gas and/or oil that gets slopped. Remove the air filter and the spark plug. Drain the old fuel, and pour a little fresh gas into the tank. Pour an ounce of carburetor cleaner additive (like GumOut™) into the tank and mix it with the gasoline. Also, pour some of the cleaner directly into the carburetor and brush it around. (An old toothbrush will do, so long as it is clean.) Pull the starter cord repeatedly, so that the fuel/cleaner mixture gets pulled through the carburetor. Drain the mixture from the tank, and then fill it with fresh fuel. Replace the spark plug and air filter, and start the mower.<br /> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">DURING THE SEASON:<br /> Inspect the air filter frequently, and clean or replace it when necessary. Check the oil level before each use, and change the oil when it becomes dirty. Before refueling the mower or any other tools, let the engine cool down to prevent an explosion or fire. Wipe off any fuel spillage and move the gas can well away from the motor before attempting to start the engine. Clean the tool before putting it away after each job, paying special attention to removing all grass from the area beneath the mower deck. <br /> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">STORING THE TOOL AT THE END OF THE SEASON:<br /> Clean the tool thoroughly before putting it away at the end of the season. On mowers, be sure to clean out all the old grass from under the deck, and coat the area with a rust-inhibiting lubricant (WD-40™, Teflon, or silicone spray). A lot of people suggest running the engine out of gas before storing at the end of the season, but residual gasoline can turn into a varnish-like coating that can plug up the fuel system when you try to start it next season. Instead, you can add a fuel stabilization product (like Stabil™) to a full gas tank and run the motor for a few minutes to ensure that the mixture has made it into the carburetor. (The additive will prevent the varnish build-up during storage.) Then, clean or replace the air filter. <br /> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">If you have a four-stroke engine, change the oil to clean out the acids and combustion by-products from the crankcase and prevent rusting and pitting of the engine internals. On both two-stroke and four-stroke engines, remove the spark plug and pour a small amount of oil into the cylinder. Leave the ignition off, pull the rope several times to circulate the oil, and replace the spark plug. The oil will keep the piston and cylinder from rusting together.<br /> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Several minutes of maintenance labor at the beginning and end of the season will help keep your gas engine tools running well for years to come – and save you from repair shop bills.</span></span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>auldhausdoktorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03678596017791302385noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8209423058070794716.post-30446565483982082092015-05-16T22:22:00.000-04:002015-05-18T18:51:16.553-04:00A GRASSROOTS MOVEMENT<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">A few hours before I wrote this post, I checked my spam folder before emptying it and found this missive from Janis in Butler PA:</span></span><br />
<br />
<i><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Jim,</span></span></i><br />
<div>
<i><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I had the pleasure of speaking with Becky
today after stumbling onto the Home Repair Resource Center website. My
daughter just bought her first home in Bay Village, Ohio and we have
been having a very difficult time finding an electrician to help with
knob & tube removal. Therefore, I have been investigating all over
the internet what options we have for DYI … long story and not relevant
to this email. Anyway, Becky was delightful. After speaking with her I
found a video interview (<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZQu1FMPIAbk">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZQu1FMPIAbk</a>) on YouTube from a Cleveland News show that
showcased you and some of the women who have participated in the “home
how to” events. It was very cool and I just wanted to send you this
email to say how much I enjoyed watching. It was wonderful to see how
empowered the woman felt … thanks to you and Becky!!! </span></span></i></div>
<div>
</div>
<div>
<i><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I wish all neighborhoods offered that type of resource.</span></span></i></div>
<div>
<i><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></i></div>
<div>
<i><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I
absolutely love the Kunselman’s laws of home repair!!! Especially
Kunselman’s Fourth Law. Proof that it is a danger … some crazy lady from
Pennsylvania just googled you and sent you an email ;-)</span></span></i></div>
<div>
</div>
<div>
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Dear Janis,</span></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Thank you for your compliments. I wish that all cities had an HRRC, too. I often tell people that HRRC is a rare bird. There are a few nonprofits across the US that do some of the things that HRRC does, but unfortunately there's none that does all the things this </span></span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">organization</span></span> does. Financial counseling, home repair loans and grants, low cost tool rentals and home repair counseling and education.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"> </span></span></div>
<div>
</div>
<div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I have come to believe that local governments cannot "will" such an organization to exist, that the folks from the neighborhoods themselves have to pull together to bring them about. In Cleveland Heights OH, it was a group from within Forest Hills Presbyterian Church that </span></span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">began the organization in 1971. (See <a href="http://www.hrrc-ch.org/about-us/history/">http://www.hrrc-ch.org/about-us/history/</a>) The founding Executive Director, Diana Woodbridge was (and still is) a tempest unbound, her drive had kept the nonprofit going when many others would fail. She pulled the city into many of the HRRC projects that it benefited both City Hall and HRRC.</span></span></div>
<div>
</div>
<div>
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">So Janis, I hope that you and a group of your friends in Butler will consider starting such an </span></span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">organization. There's a lot of geezers like me out there; almost retired, a headfull of construction secrets, slow moving, but quick with a corny joke, willing to teach folks how to do </span></span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">just about any </span></span>basic repair in their homes.</span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div>
</div>
<div>
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A few years ago, the </span></span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">organization lost some of its funding and I was laid off. During my time there, </span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I was lucky enough to teach literally thousands of folks to do basic home repairs. As much as I enjoy working in the Old Stone Church, I still miss the fun of watching the people becoming empowered and taking off on their own projects.</span></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
auldhausdoktorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03678596017791302385noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8209423058070794716.post-31270950878326683222015-03-19T00:17:00.000-04:002015-03-19T00:28:41.897-04:00Be Prepared<style type="text/css">P { margin-bottom: 0.08in; }</style>
<br />
<div style="line-height: 0.17in; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: left; text-indent: 0.19in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">Remember when people were so obsessed with
Y2K and the “Millennium bug?” The fear that all
computer-controlled systems would shut down at the beginning of 2000.
Although that event never materialized, the northeast regional
blackout in August 2003 taught us that multiple systems can be
affected when the electricity goes out for any reason. It’s a good
idea to have certain emergency preparations in place at all times, to
stave off hunger and cold in case our power, water, or other support
systems are interrupted for an extended period. The first step is to
consider alternatives to our usual ways of doing things.
</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">
</span></div>
<div style="line-height: 0.17in; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: left; text-indent: 0.19in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span>
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">
</span></div>
<div style="line-height: 0.17in; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-right: -0.06in; text-align: left; text-indent: 0.19in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">Many of us have gone without power (and natural gas, for
that matter,) for several days after a winter storm. Most boilers
and furnaces will not function without electricity. An alternative
power source, such as a portable 5000-to-8000 watt generator, can
keep the heat going (so long as you have fuel for the generator,)
plus power the refrigerator and some lights. There are switching
panels that can be installed in the main service box by a licensed
electrician, which will allow the house wiring to distribute output
from the generator. For many people, however, the cost of this
system will be prohibitive; a small generator and panel will run well
over $2000. </span>
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">
</span></div>
<div style="line-height: 0.17in; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: left; text-indent: 0.19in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span>
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">
</span></div>
<div style="line-height: 0.17in; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-right: -0.06in; text-align: left; text-indent: 0.19in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">One low-tech and fairly low-cost method for heating is
the living room fireplace. (Not to mention those lucky folks who
have a fireplace in the bedroom, too). The heat will be localized,
but you’ll have at least one warm room. If you’ll be using this
source of heat, have the chimney checked and cleaned, if necessary,
before winter. Make sure the damper is in good condition, too.
Stock up on firewood early enough to allow it to season properly.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">
</span></div>
<div style="line-height: 0.17in; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: left; text-indent: 0.19in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span>
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">
</span></div>
<div style="line-height: 0.17in; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: left; text-indent: 0.19in;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ1dFPD4Nf5oI86X1eDH83MbcdO_5vWQYi8oXbQZpGZJn_T1D-M_b2kgH4N17KMvff85YyRCWgnjF9dvTHNeLOPyyPcxTtb2TCH6Ot7zWjfb7QlQ9feXqPrCB5rKfuUqNHJHOva7Iiyi3u/s1600/MrHeater.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ1dFPD4Nf5oI86X1eDH83MbcdO_5vWQYi8oXbQZpGZJn_T1D-M_b2kgH4N17KMvff85YyRCWgnjF9dvTHNeLOPyyPcxTtb2TCH6Ot7zWjfb7QlQ9feXqPrCB5rKfuUqNHJHOva7Iiyi3u/s1600/MrHeater.jpg" height="200" width="200" /></a><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">If you do not have a fireplace, in an emergency you will
probably be looking for other ways to keep warm. One common
misconception is that you can use a gas range oven as a source of heat.
That’s not a good idea – the stove can add a lot of carbon
monoxide to the air, and the heat can melt the control handles of the
appliance. Similarly, kerosene heaters and ventless (natural gas or
propane) space heaters can pose dangers. My hometown city fire and building
departments prefer to see vented units that minimize the risk of
carbon monoxide poisoning, and units that are fastened to the wall or
floor and can’t be knocked over. If you are forced to use a
portable unit in an emergency situation, be sure to keep all
combustibles well away from the heater, provide ventilation (such as
a slightly-opened window), secure the heater to the floor (with nails
or screws, for example), and follow all instructions from the
manufacturer for its use.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">
</span></div>
<div style="line-height: 0.17in; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: left; text-indent: 0.19in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span>
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">
</span></div>
<div style="line-height: 0.17in; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: left; text-indent: 0.19in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">Emergency lighting is important, but it’s a good idea
to avoid items that burn to provide light, such as candles, hurricane
oil lamps, or propane lanterns. Consider battery-powered lanterns
and flashlights to prevent accidental fires. There are LED flashlights use
less power to make light, running for a longer period of time on that set of
batteries. </span>
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">
</span></div>
<div style="line-height: 0.17in; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: left; text-indent: 0.19in;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi29uKs38Qzl6MTYj0Kp1cq4xEfrc582TiXVZFHfpA_HMf3kLGPzuFCNGqba4DW0wGTJNRl1iJAsMX9hDVCtOnrRGAtyFsWcwefDUZGeOPChgNWbelZqglMhLIc1UAUHP2cOVDBetSqFqxL/s1600/coleman-quad-lantern.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi29uKs38Qzl6MTYj0Kp1cq4xEfrc582TiXVZFHfpA_HMf3kLGPzuFCNGqba4DW0wGTJNRl1iJAsMX9hDVCtOnrRGAtyFsWcwefDUZGeOPChgNWbelZqglMhLIc1UAUHP2cOVDBetSqFqxL/s1600/coleman-quad-lantern.jpg" height="200" width="200" /></a><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">
</span></div>
<div style="line-height: 0.17in; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: left; text-indent: 0.19in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">Provisions need to be purchased in advance, and stored.
Choose alkaline over the regular or “heavy-duty” batteries, as
the alkaline models can be stored for a longer period of time –
check the expiration date on the package when you purchase them – or
buy alkaline batteries that can be recharged. Another
battery-powered item to have on hand is a portable radio. Besides
some entertaining diversion, it can warn you of emergencies (like
school closings) and incoming weather.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">
</span></div>
<div style="line-height: 0.17in; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: left; text-indent: 0.19in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span>
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">
</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">
</span></div>
<div style="line-height: 0.17in; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: left; text-indent: 0.19in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span>
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">
</span></div>
<div style="line-height: 0.17in; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-right: -0.06in; text-align: left; text-indent: 0.19in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">Jugs of distilled drinking water can be purchased and
stored for long periods of time. We’re normally urged to drink 8
glasses of water daily (in addition to all those cups of coffee!)
Plan for the amount your entire household will need for one or two
weeks – pets, too. Another source of drinking water you might
consider is a small water purification unit, carried by camping
supply and some sporting goods stores. Melted snow (make sure it’s
not “yellow”) or collected rainwater can be made “potable”
for cooking, washing, and drinking with a purification unit.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">
</span></div>
<div style="line-height: 0.17in; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: left; text-indent: 0.19in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span>
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">
</span></div>
<div style="line-height: 0.17in; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: left; text-indent: 0.19in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">As for eating, that propane grill stored all winter out
in the garage can roast, grill, or even boil foods for you. A small
portable propane camp stove can be useful, as well. Both must be
used outdoors to prevent problems, but either one can heat water for
washing, as well as for cooking. Keep your pantry stocked with
pre-cooked canned goods (i.e., vegetables, meats, soups, ravioli, and
spaghetti,) to eliminate the need to keep a lot of food refrigerated
during a prolonged power outage. (Don’t forget that you’ll need
a hand-powered can opener!) A 48- or 60-quart picnic cooler can keep
milk and fresh produce chilled, so long as you have ice.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">
</span></div>
<div style="line-height: 0.17in; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: left; text-indent: 0.19in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span>
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">
</span></div>
<div style="line-height: 0.17in; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-right: -0.31in; text-align: left; text-indent: 0.19in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">Another thing to keep on hand is a supply of essential
medications. If you must take prescription drugs, talk to your
doctor or pharmacist about how long they can be stored, and under
what conditions.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">
</span></div>
<div style="line-height: 0.17in; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: left; text-indent: 0.19in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span>
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">
</span></div>
<div style="line-height: 0.17in; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-right: -0.06in; text-align: left; text-indent: 0.19in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">If the heat is off for an extended period of time in
winter and you will have to go elsewhere to be warm, it will be important to prevent frozen pipes and damaged fixtures. Shut off the
water at the meter, and then open all the faucets to drain out as
much water as possible. Use nontoxic RV antifreeze to put in all sink and tub traps (2 cups per trap). Toilets will need the tank emptied, sop out any remaining water with an old towel. Pour about a half gallon of </span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">nontoxic RV antifreeze into the bowl.</span><br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">The last item of concern – and the one
some people may consider the most important – is the toilet. Even
if there is no water service, there will still be a need to eliminate
body wastes. Short of digging a primitive latrine in your back yard
(you’ll find directions for that in an old scouting manual), water already
used for washing or cooking (called “gray water”) can be stored
for re-use to flush a toilet. 1-1/2 gallons will flush through solid
wastes when poured quickly into the bowl; keep a bucket on hand to
hold the water.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">
</span></div>
<div style="line-height: 0.17in; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: left; text-indent: 0.19in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span>
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">
</span></div>
<div style="line-height: 0.17in; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: left; text-indent: 0.19in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">Even though the millennium came without complicating our
lives, sooner or later we’ll almost certainly have to deal with a
winter power outage of some sort. Preparations like these can make
our lives easier during such times, but the most important thing is
to PLAN AHEAD.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">
</span></div>
<div style="line-height: 0.17in; margin-bottom: 0.08in; text-indent: 0.19in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">
</span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="line-height: 0.17in; margin-bottom: 0.08in; text-indent: 0.19in;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
auldhausdoktorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03678596017791302385noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8209423058070794716.post-22532511660803792252015-03-11T17:53:00.000-04:002015-04-27T16:22:41.863-04:00Can't you hear me knocking?<div style="line-height: 0.17in; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-right: -0.01in; text-align: left; text-indent: 0.19in;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQi9SlMGyiQzg_EA1bAgr7nydadSCSp-ycu-VSn30aBqEetzr6yjU1P4bgRxLSaXmaQyQug4ayErjPiPF8Uve4VN7ifL5eTbwfJ5DgRl6XKOXVALe5-nsjRAjJnWo1ShPh4s4Ky9gc65Nk/s1600/XFMR_001_image.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQi9SlMGyiQzg_EA1bAgr7nydadSCSp-ycu-VSn30aBqEetzr6yjU1P4bgRxLSaXmaQyQug4ayErjPiPF8Uve4VN7ifL5eTbwfJ5DgRl6XKOXVALe5-nsjRAjJnWo1ShPh4s4Ky9gc65Nk/s1600/XFMR_001_image.jpg" width="200" /></a><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">When the doorbell doesn't work, I usually can't hear folks knocking at my front door unless I'm on the first floor of the house. Rather than hang up a “Doorbell out of order, wake the dog” sign, most bell problems are pretty easy to diagnose and fix. </span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;"><br /> </span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">The first place I like to check is the transformer to see if there is power to the system. The transformer reduces the 120-volt house current to the 10 or 16 volts AC needed to run the doorbell system. In some old houses it may be a small black box attached to a beam or to a junction box in the basement. It may be attached directly to the electric service panel. I use a multimeter to check for power, if don't you have one, you can use a low-volt circuit tester. If you don't get an indication of power, it's time to replace the transformer.</span><span style="font-size: large;"><br /><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /> The most common problem is in the doorbell button or switch. It's exposed to the weather even under a porch roof and the contact points in it will eventually become corroded. A simple enough test, you just unscrew the doorbell button to get to the two wires that are fastened to the back. Touch those two wires together and the bell rings, you'll know the button is bad. If you just get a faint spark without a ring when touching the wires together, it's time to look at the bell.</span></span></div>
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq4OSZoHrl1WUFe7bbc4GcQGc2n2ew-PADsO2LYmEG-I2frZNErvxgLV3n83Re46QbWQu8b6QG8d2CRL-3LKg5ud-UoeFNcq7CTX7729ZbTtyyUcK8TB3_vYVmp0FyTk1OrWPkfM4berzY/s1600/IMG_0614.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq4OSZoHrl1WUFe7bbc4GcQGc2n2ew-PADsO2LYmEG-I2frZNErvxgLV3n83Re46QbWQu8b6QG8d2CRL-3LKg5ud-UoeFNcq7CTX7729ZbTtyyUcK8TB3_vYVmp0FyTk1OrWPkfM4berzY/s1600/IMG_0614.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">While
the bell unit isn't the cause of most doorbell problems, it can fail on
occasion – especially if it is mounted in the kitchen. Dust, tobacco smoke, spider webs and grease can collect in
the electromagnetic striker mechanism and gum it up</span>. </span> </span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0Sy0uAYteeZkw01VJFdmAMkiPUFrrotKvDt9ZJ0Dknic0cnUjp76oCLmLinJt4qnuUwmwi-l_MKxVByQfWvcR9NqDL5XRFGdZpnJT4UQnHPDLPyfLpDZLfyATjHTNb_QIu1_UPMEXxLww/s1600/IMG_0615.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0Sy0uAYteeZkw01VJFdmAMkiPUFrrotKvDt9ZJ0Dknic0cnUjp76oCLmLinJt4qnuUwmwi-l_MKxVByQfWvcR9NqDL5XRFGdZpnJT4UQnHPDLPyfLpDZLfyATjHTNb_QIu1_UPMEXxLww/s1600/IMG_0615.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">Take the cover off the chime unit and have someone try the door button. If the striker moves but doesn't hit the chime, you will have to clean the striker(s).</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The chime bar rests on rubber grommets mounted on plastic posts. Gently pull up the bar and pull out the hammer. Spray a light lubrication oil (like WD-40) on a soft cloth and clean the striker. Use a cotton swab to clean out any crud from the electromagnet coil tube. Then wipe off any excess oil which may collect dust. </span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAty60ewnVCi-TfaVFXRYZEFr3Rl-cM9V_Vjmg9yD1LNHaw4Aa4xpKF9JewYCksEZObDvvCRPYNA4EOIOQNuo9ncm0UrWlMP6S6J1SDKA_oiSIkyEBLYfogAszoQSpikJs7egO8AftDwW6/s1600/IMG_0616.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAty60ewnVCi-TfaVFXRYZEFr3Rl-cM9V_Vjmg9yD1LNHaw4Aa4xpKF9JewYCksEZObDvvCRPYNA4EOIOQNuo9ncm0UrWlMP6S6J1SDKA_oiSIkyEBLYfogAszoQSpikJs7egO8AftDwW6/s1600/IMG_0616.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">Put the striker back its place, press it down all the way to its stop, then slip your finger off the top to see if it pops up freely. Replace the chime bar onto the grommets and try the button outside.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: large;"></span><br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">If the striker hits the first chime, but the not second chime, pull the striker out again and stretch the spring to give it more tension and replace the striker in the mechanism.</span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;"> Try the button to see if you get a "ding-dong." </span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB7HDrUOjQCU2L4pTbmBsVMzkDQXG1B-qHgOLn4Qw4qHXEsW1XjXkKn3urtVm2LyZeJ7r0NPKxXTljEYeRYOqTaR-r3OxAiFRpq9f60NYB4_cUcOaVMbCuVPkcbpq-OVoqIPzhrq-pJDUB/s1600/IMG_0617.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB7HDrUOjQCU2L4pTbmBsVMzkDQXG1B-qHgOLn4Qw4qHXEsW1XjXkKn3urtVm2LyZeJ7r0NPKxXTljEYeRYOqTaR-r3OxAiFRpq9f60NYB4_cUcOaVMbCuVPkcbpq-OVoqIPzhrq-pJDUB/s1600/IMG_0617.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"> </span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">Sometimes there's just no fixing the chime unit and you'll have to replace it. Before you disassemble the unit, mark the wires so that you know which one goes to the front door, backdoor and common terminals. Especially important if they are all the same color.<br /> </span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">My buddy Russ always reminds me that anything man-made is doomed to failure. Wiring can go bad too, but if this is indeed the problem, it will take some tracking to find where the wire is broken. The wires are a little larger than thick fishing line, and you should be able to see them in your basement ceiling. However, breaks are usually found behind one of the door trim pieces. Locksmiths and door installers can cut the wires with screws or nails when they do their work because the wires are hidden from view.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: large;">Once you've found the location of the break, you don't have to replace the whole length of wire – just the part that is broken. Twist the new portion together with the unbroken length and tape with electrical tape. <br /><br /> <br /> </span><br /> </span></div>
<!-- Blogger automated replacement: "https://images-blogger-opensocial.googleusercontent.com/gadgets/proxy?url=http%3A%2F%2F3.bp.blogspot.com%2F-r7AABZty5ig%2FVQB72HneASI%2FAAAAAAAAAMQ%2FtGg6BmObMt8%2Fs1600%2FXFMR_001_image.jpg&container=blogger&gadget=a&rewriteMime=image%2F*" with "https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQi9SlMGyiQzg_EA1bAgr7nydadSCSp-ycu-VSn30aBqEetzr6yjU1P4bgRxLSaXmaQyQug4ayErjPiPF8Uve4VN7ifL5eTbwfJ5DgRl6XKOXVALe5-nsjRAjJnWo1ShPh4s4Ky9gc65Nk/s1600/XFMR_001_image.jpg" -->auldhausdoktorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03678596017791302385noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8209423058070794716.post-22597785823397582752015-03-11T17:17:00.001-04:002015-03-15T15:08:41.830-04:00Plywood vs. Oriented Strand Board<h2 style="text-align: left;">
<style type="text/css">P { margin-bottom: 0.08in; }</style><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: black; font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">Several years ago, Sid and I were stripping the roofing material from a
leaking flat porch roof when he launched into his ritual diatribe about how little
I was paying him (he was being paid as much as I was). I was just about
to reply in my customary string of profanities that he should get
busy with the job, when I disappeared through the roof. All that Sid
had seen was the column of dust rising where I had been just a moment
before. I had landed unhurt but angry on the porch floor below.
When I got back on the roof, I found that a previous contractor had
used </span></span><span style="color: black; font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;"><i>Oriented
Strand Board</i></span></span><span style="color: black; font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">
(OSB) for a section of the roof deck. It had swollen and disintegrated due to the
water damage. Thus began my hatred of the use of OSB for roofs.</span></span></span></h2>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic5RUUI4h1zPGKzJX3QkiAGarm63cd0I17JrNe-00lv1rA4j40M14PTi7KP_jsUTGpUvWUNwKh9XnpJJ8pJObJPCIc66UYmyu9OLrH9wXz6n6Cl3UgkULZRRkMhta1VJhSQTPc_PXqVmxV/s1600/plywood.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic5RUUI4h1zPGKzJX3QkiAGarm63cd0I17JrNe-00lv1rA4j40M14PTi7KP_jsUTGpUvWUNwKh9XnpJJ8pJObJPCIc66UYmyu9OLrH9wXz6n6Cl3UgkULZRRkMhta1VJhSQTPc_PXqVmxV/s1600/plywood.jpg" height="173" width="320" /></a><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">On
most old flat porch roofs you would find what is called “one-by”
pine planking (1”X 8”, 1”X 10”, etc.) used for the decking.
Planking is the costlier choice for a roof deck nowadays. Plywood
first appeared around the turn of the 20th. century, but did not
become a common decking material until the late 1940’s. Plywood is
constructed of thick layers of veneer oriented at right angles to one
another for strength and stiffness. OSB came onto the market in the
late 1970’s and is made from 3- to 4-inch wood strands that are
applied in layers and pressed together with adhesive. Like plywood
the layers are oriented at right angles and weighs 10 percent to 15
percent more.</span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: left;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">OSB
costs about $5-6 less per panel than plywood, which is a significant
savings when 16 or more panels may be used for a two-car garage roof,
for example. Georgia-Pacific (a major producer of OSB) states in a
2003 research paper that CDX plywood holds up better under excessive
wettings, has an all-wood surface that results in better glue
adhesion. </span></span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">The ‘C’
and ‘D’ are the finish ratings of the panel surfaces and the ‘X’
means it’s rated for exterior humidity. </span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: left;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">Plywood is 15 percent lighter and flexes less than OSB.
They further state that their tests indicate that plywood holds nails
better, too. Personally, I have no problem using OSB for wall
sheathing, but I’d never use it for a walk-on roof deck and am
loathed to use it on a gable roof--especially with the snow loads
that we get in our area (the Northeast Ohio snowbelt). Several Ohio communities and several states including the state of
Florida have banned it for roof decks due to swelling caused by high
humidity along the edges.</span></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio2SiXLZhOe5oN1R9NVCM5cKS4XuJbfiPPZOy5mdhdNEkPSE1mVm6U-BlQuqh50TymNNpRseJWm6F9x0Vs_pt9qAvz2ZpCctrgH2in1vF_csRFKBnz7R47IOCTda3Trq0FiFnTlNKTAgVN/s1600/osbboard.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio2SiXLZhOe5oN1R9NVCM5cKS4XuJbfiPPZOy5mdhdNEkPSE1mVm6U-BlQuqh50TymNNpRseJWm6F9x0Vs_pt9qAvz2ZpCctrgH2in1vF_csRFKBnz7R47IOCTda3Trq0FiFnTlNKTAgVN/s1600/osbboard.png" height="215" width="320" /></a><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">Admittedly, OSB is better than it was ten years ago, I still will not allow it on </span></span></span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">any</span></span></span> job that I'm involved in. For
a walk-on deck I specify 3/4” CDX plywood and 5/8” CDX for a
roof that’s not walked on (though I prefer 3/4” CDX). On gabled roofs the building code specifies 1/2" four-ply CDX, I specify 5/8" for the snow loads we get. On shallow pitch roofs, I'd still would want 3/4" CDX. I would rather overbuild than have a roof deck collapse under snow</span></span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;"></span></span></span><br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">
</span></span></span>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: left;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">One last thing--if you
ever do a roofing job with Sid, please smack him with a shovel for
me.</span></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
auldhausdoktorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03678596017791302385noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8209423058070794716.post-45608605056755056952015-01-22T00:05:00.000-05:002015-05-27T11:57:25.496-04:00Deck Story<style type="text/css">P { margin-bottom: 0.08in; }</style>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">I
was going through some old magazines recently and found an article
from 2003 about a deck collapsing and killing about a dozen people in
Chicago. It was a third-story deck and it broke loose where the
deck framing met the building wall. Granted, there were a lot of
people on it, but a plank called a ‘ledger board’ was partially
rotted and it split where the bolts attached it to the building causing
the collapse.</span></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">
</span></span>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
</div>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">
</span></span>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEoK9PwCwXjSDvK03UofP1AZRr551IVGqGXIlYicYUdBuz6S4KksrqgpSzfKZZArTgCS8VI5Io8mF-yG2WFGrAiAsOohblrrwBv-f2HkqH6bGEB0-j9hqM74WYNg67NB2ru7Cp9oOlwnqU/s1600/decktwo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEoK9PwCwXjSDvK03UofP1AZRr551IVGqGXIlYicYUdBuz6S4KksrqgpSzfKZZArTgCS8VI5Io8mF-yG2WFGrAiAsOohblrrwBv-f2HkqH6bGEB0-j9hqM74WYNg67NB2ru7Cp9oOlwnqU/s1600/decktwo.jpg" width="385" /></a><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">While
there are decks that fail because they are not built to code
specifications, the most common problem is that they are not
maintained well. Often when a deck is refinished; the joists, ledger
board, and posts have not been coated with waterproofing. Joists can
remain wet for a long period of time--unable to dry because of
shading by the planking above and they will rot. </span><span style="font-size: large;">So,
it’s</span><span style="font-size: large;"> vital to do an
annual inspection and maintenance to a wood deck, especially older
decks on long posts. Homeowners can do most of the maintenance
required, but if the deck is more than 6 years old (or if you don’t
know the age), a professional should do an inspection that
specializes in wood-frame construction. This keeps your deck
attractive, protects your investment and prevents a deck failure. </span></span>
</div>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">
</span></span>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></span>
</div>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">
</span></span>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">When
I have built decks, I tend to over-build. If the design load is for
40 pounds per square foot and the span chart calls for 2x8” joists,
I’ll use 2x10s. Where some plans may have one support beam, I will
add a second beam or more (see the beam near the house wall in the drawing above). Use bolts and nuts with washers that go through the rim joist instead of
nails or lag screws to attach the ledger to the house. Having
lived in the NE Ohio Snow Belt my entire life, I’ve seen enough structures
collapse with 3-to-5 feet of wet snowfall (often at the ledger board)
and I just don’t want that beggar to come down. </span></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">It is important
that railings are well secured and the spacing (4 inches) between
balusters to prevent small children slipping through the railing.
The stronger the deck is, the less likely Junior’s graduation party
will bring it down, too.</span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">
</span></span>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">So
you may consider adding an extra beam under your deck to strengthen
it.</span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">
</span></span>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></span>
</div>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">
</span></span>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">Check
the understructure to ensure the wood is solid. If you can push a
screwdriver a quarter-inch into the wood, it’s time to replace it.
Do the same test with the deck planks, too. If you replace any
rotted planks, use galvanized or stainless steel screws instead nails
to prevent the plank from pulling up.</span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">
</span></span>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></span>
</div>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">
</span></span>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">You
will need to clean the deck before refinishing a deck. A pressure
washer alone will clean the deck to prepare it for refinishing if you
do not wish to use chemicals. But if it is a long time between
refinishes, a commercial deck cleaning solution with oxalic acid
(wood bleach) may be necessary to remove the dirt, gray coloring,
mildew, and stains. I found that using a garden sprayer to apply the
cleaning solution and then using a scrub brush mounted on a broom
handle to clean the surface works well. Grease stains (under an
outdoor grill, for example) are tough to get out; a paste of TSP (Tri
Sodium Phosphate) scrubbed into the stain will break up a lot of it.
The pressure washer is then used to finish cleaning.</span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">
</span></span>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></span>
</div>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">
</span></span>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">Let
the wood dry for a few days before applying the finish. You can use
a color stain water seal on the visible surfaces, but all the
surfaces of the understructure should be treated with the clear water
seal to prevent decay, especially the support beam and posts. </span></span>
</div>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">
</span></span>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
auldhausdoktorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03678596017791302385noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8209423058070794716.post-59172997506277021722014-12-03T18:06:00.000-05:002015-03-14T15:36:02.256-04:00STRUCTURAL CLAY BLOCKS<style type="text/css">P { margin-bottom: 0.08in; }</style><span style="font-family: Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">When
digging or planting in your yard along the house, you may have
noticed a difference in the building materials, where the ground
meets the foundation. Many homes that were built from about 1915
through to the 1950’s, used structural clay (tile) blocks for the
foundation walls. Prior to 1915, cut stone blocks or bricks were
often used to build the foundation. Clay blocks were less expensive
than stone blocks and easier to handle because their light weight.
Their larger size (approximately 8" x 12" or 8" x 16")
provided a labor savings in erecting the foundation compared to brick
and were usually found on the outside foundation wall, below the soil
line (or “</span></span><span style="font-family: Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>grade</b></span><span style="font-family: Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">”)
with several rows of the more costly bricks exposed above grade</span><br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioEc7pRGPPbSOAOJO2XLbTCInVfBBJ74Op4jeyms4ZF2RY4J5mHjk6VtKeIVf9Au443ygTxqney2ya8yrarbb-Oc8XmtqaTlkCSLQv5845rvnGERpaBsBAQlPyqNiiZMy2Nl_KFNFjxDUc/s1600/clayblock.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioEc7pRGPPbSOAOJO2XLbTCInVfBBJ74Op4jeyms4ZF2RY4J5mHjk6VtKeIVf9Au443ygTxqney2ya8yrarbb-Oc8XmtqaTlkCSLQv5845rvnGERpaBsBAQlPyqNiiZMy2Nl_KFNFjxDUc/s1600/clayblock.jpg" /></a><span style="font-family: Helvetica, sans-serif;"> Clay
blocks were not fired long enough to have a hardened surface like
brick, so they are vulnerable to the destructive effects of weather
exposure. If the outside foundation walls become open to the
elements, the blocks can become soft and porous, and will </span><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica, sans-serif;">spall</span></span><span style="font-family: Helvetica, sans-serif;">
or deteriorate in a fairly short period of time. This can lead to
voids in your foundation and water seeping into your basement. It’s
important that you fill any voids where the block face may have
broken away. Use some old bricks and mortar to fill the opening.
You can use the same method to make a repair on the interior surface
of the wall.</span></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"> If
your lawn has settled over the years, exposing the clay blocks, it is
to your advantage to get it covered back up again as soon as
possible. There are several ways to go about this. The easiest
approach is to ‘ramp’ soil around the house so that the exposed
blocks of your foundation are covered, sloping away from the house to
the level of the rest of the lawn. The ramped soil will also direct
surface water away from the foundation preventing water seepage into
the wall. Another way would be to bring in a couple of loads of
topsoil to raise the level of the lawn around the house to cover the
clay tile. Then, you would have to plant new grass seed. This
method involves a lot of labor—your own or paid help—and patience
in tending the new grass. A third method would be to take some
railroad ties or treated landscape timbers and enclose an area
surrounding the foundation. The enclosed area, when filled with dirt
high enough to cover the exposed blocks, will give you a raised bed
perfect for planting shrubs or flowers. Keep shrubs a couple of
feet or more away from the house.</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf5mwCzGQXpdKY55Aw2yFtlg0FWi6ht1ldPUvIeBKcdrR_c_2DOsDKHlKpddYY8b1QzCGIivfyuPBBXsuJjP4fAwC8F2QWB_-7qor3kZwctO2zAp_esqplavK2NAZUi-lc2PniBSWUWrc4/s1600/Structural+Tile+Blocks.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf5mwCzGQXpdKY55Aw2yFtlg0FWi6ht1ldPUvIeBKcdrR_c_2DOsDKHlKpddYY8b1QzCGIivfyuPBBXsuJjP4fAwC8F2QWB_-7qor3kZwctO2zAp_esqplavK2NAZUi-lc2PniBSWUWrc4/s1600/Structural+Tile+Blocks.JPG" height="236" width="320" /></a><span style="font-family: Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"> There
are some other simple ways of doing all this—but, however you do
it, the object is to get the tile covered and protected from the
weather. Like many smaller repairs, this situation has a way of
turning into a bigger problem, if care is not taken. So, take a look
around your home, see what is your situation, and plan your course of
action. </span>
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
auldhausdoktorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03678596017791302385noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8209423058070794716.post-50168297656497018952014-07-19T22:13:00.000-04:002015-05-16T11:43:43.225-04:00Kunselman's laws of home repair<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<span style="font-size: large;">I'm no Albert Einstein<iframe align="left" frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=jkunselman&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=0877659168&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="height: 245px; padding-right: 10px; padding-top: 5px; width: 131px;"></iframe><iframe align="left" frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=jkunselman&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=B0026HUQYU&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="height: 245px; padding-right: 10px; padding-top: 5px; width: 131px;"></iframe> (although I admire his genius), I don't even pretend to be that smart and I know I can't compete with the laws of General Relativity. It was just that in the early 1980's while working as a counterman at a local hardware store in Cleveland, that I came to the realization of my own version of Murphy's laws. While scientific researchers have never proved or disproved my theorems, I just offer them to you as possible explanations for some of the mysteries of home repair. And to immortalize myself; of course, I named the laws after me (me being Kunselman).</span></div>
<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span></div>
<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Kunselman's First Law: </b> <b> </b></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Never start a project after the supply stores close</b>.</span></div>
<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span></div>
<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<span style="font-size: large;">Even if you think that you have everything you need to do the job, up to and including Aunt Sadie's bloomers--something will snap, break or disintegrate within nano-seconds of the store closing. Sunday morning is the worst time to jump into a big repair job because whatever it is that you broke will not available at a Home Depot or Lowes' and you'll have to wait until the supply store reopens on Monday.</span></div>
<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span></div>
<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Kunselman's Second Law: </span></b></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Always take the broken parts with you to the supply store.</span></b></span><br />
<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span></div>
<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<span style="font-size: large;">If you have a Humma-Dunker faucet made in western Austrobovia, is it the model with the what-zit mounted on the front or on the side? If you bring the old part with you to the store, the counter clerk and you can eyeball the new part to ensure that it's gonna fit.</span></div>
<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span></div>
<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>Kunselman's Third Law: </b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>Learn the names of the parts on the item that you're working upon. </b></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">I can understand this can be a tough one for most people, because I speak Construction and had learned English as a second language<b>. </b>It's still very difficult for me, (I am fluent in Profanity, however) but knowing the correct part names makes it much easier to communicate to supply store clerks to get the part you need. It amazes me how much information is out there on the web, so look it up. Some vendors on the web have exploded views with part names and order numbers. If whatever item you're working upon has a plate or tag with a model number and a serial number, write those down and bring along, too.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b><br />
</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>Kunselman's Fourth Law:</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>Never tell anyone that you know how to fix/build things or that you have tools.</b></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">Let me tell you, if you let it get out that you can do things around the house, you're in deep trouble. You'll be stuck wiring fixtures in your cousin Eddie's kitchen, then insulating your mom's attic under the shallow pitched roof and getting wedged. The next-door neighbor will want you to show her how to install a water heater. In fact, you shouldn't tell your wife, husband or spouse-equivalent, that you know how to work on anything. My spouse-</span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">equivalent</span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;"> has 10 years' worth of 'Honey-Do' jobs for me to complete, I'll never see a Saturday again. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">As for not telling anyone that you have tools--I'll just say that my kid brother has had my pressure washer for five years now. I think you get the idea.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;"><br />
</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b><br />
</b></span>auldhausdoktorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03678596017791302385noreply@blogger.com0Cleveland Heights, OH, USA41.512168020749058 -81.555547714233441.506223020749061 -81.5656327142334 41.518113020749055 -81.5454627142334tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8209423058070794716.post-14549767346804654612012-07-19T12:15:00.000-04:002015-03-19T08:40:48.649-04:00Instantaneous (Tankless) Water Heaters<style>@font-face {
font-family: "Times New Roman";
}@font-face {
font-family: "Arial";
}p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal { margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 12pt; font-family: "Times New Roman"; }table.MsoNormalTable { font-size: 10pt; font-family: "Times New Roman"; }div.Section1 { page: Section1; }</style>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14pt;">You know, I’m getting downright cheap in my old age. I just hate to spend money for
utilities if I’m not home to ‘enjoy’ them. One example is that I lower the furnace thermostat when I go
to bed or when I’m away from the house.
My household critters don’t seem to mind as they have fur coats and they
make use of each other to keep warm (and sometimes my sofa,
too). I use compact fluorescent and LED bulbs
for lighting and I even have solar powered spotlights to illuminate the back
porch. I’ll try anything to save a
buck.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14pt;">But there doesn’t seem to be much we can do with tank-type
water heaters. I’ve added tank
blankets and pipe insulation, but it doesn’t seem to save all that much. Since 2004, storage tank-type water
heaters have been mandated (by the U.S. Department of Energy) to be more energy
efficient as well as a combustible vapor requirement. Despite that (according to the DOE), water heating accounts
for 20% or more of an average household's annual energy costs. So, the
operating costs for gas storage tank water heaters average more than $200
annually. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGCMG5Iofd_C8MDRDFHfl2XG1ckWjro3QQ70rcmkM6zApQXpgH1mtdFbV1bXn7bThYOO3IPyayRblpxWpcsnl03ydQPUZOCnxTtJWld6T6URvf6DnpfmUh_6GNFubaMDOCfeGLMzjQq6Uo/s1600/TanklessWaterHeaterBig.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGCMG5Iofd_C8MDRDFHfl2XG1ckWjro3QQ70rcmkM6zApQXpgH1mtdFbV1bXn7bThYOO3IPyayRblpxWpcsnl03ydQPUZOCnxTtJWld6T6URvf6DnpfmUh_6GNFubaMDOCfeGLMzjQq6Uo/s320/TanklessWaterHeaterBig.jpg" height="320" width="182" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rinnai whole house water heater</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14pt;">A tank-type water heater maintains the water temperature to
the thermostat setting on the tank. The
heater does this even if no hot water is drawn from the tank. This is due to "standby
loss": the heat radiates from the walls of the tank and out the flue pipe.
These standby losses represent up to 20% of a household's annual water heating
costs. One way to reduce this
expenditure is to use a tankless (also called " demand " or
"instantaneous") water heater.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14pt;">Instantaneous water heaters are common in Europe and
around the world. When I have
visited my relatives in England, I noticed the water heater in their homes were mounted on the
wall in the kitchen. Unlike the
common tank water heaters, tankless units heat water as it is used, or “on
demand”. A tankless heater has a sensing device that is activated only when you
open the spigot, the heater will fire up and give a constant supply of hot
water. Junior can do his normal
40-minute shower and there’s no waiting for hot water for your shower when he
is done.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqnz_A2Nxn8_FoR0m2qlrpu91LSWaTPP3XXu13Hmma8rXON5GMCAfTiVdKX31FAn42yeSD1w0OgypWF1Xr5jS0Ffp3yFoljVNX1CdEraIxSv5fSq6MyZBiU41L8NCnB7Xv9oXCVK0xFXj_/s1600/ariston.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqnz_A2Nxn8_FoR0m2qlrpu91LSWaTPP3XXu13Hmma8rXON5GMCAfTiVdKX31FAn42yeSD1w0OgypWF1Xr5jS0Ffp3yFoljVNX1CdEraIxSv5fSq6MyZBiU41L8NCnB7Xv9oXCVK0xFXj_/s1600/ariston.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ariston
<style>@font-face {
font-family: "Times New Roman";
}@font-face {
font-family: "Arial";
}p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal { margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 12pt; font-family: "Times New Roman"; }table.MsoNormalTable { font-size: 10pt; font-family: "Times New Roman"; }div</style><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 14pt;"></span>
demand water heater</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14pt;">The largest gas units, which may provide all the hot water
needs of a household, are installed centrally in the basement or small units at
the point of use, depending on the amount of hot water required. For example,
you </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14pt;">can use a small electric unit as a booster for a
far-off bathroom, dishwasher, or laundry. These units are usually installed
underneath a sink or nearby in a closet. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14pt;">What I have learned from using centrally-located tankless
heaters is that you need to find the highest flow rate you can get. Also you
may need modify your water-use behavior a little bit. Despite manufacturers’ claims, you still do not get the same
flow rate of water as you would with a tank type heater. With a 3.5-gallon per minute showerhead
running and a large water-using appliance cycles on, one or both may not get
much hot water. So hopefully, you
get to finish your shower before Junior decides to turn on the dishwasher. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14pt;">Now if I
can only figure out a way to convert the excess energy that my dogs have to
heating the house.</span></div>
auldhausdoktorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03678596017791302385noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8209423058070794716.post-38796795313646018322012-06-06T18:07:00.003-04:002015-02-21T08:36:55.830-05:00A Summer Reading List<div class="post-title entry-title" itemprop="name" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-weight: normal; text-align: left;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKC9KdX4uSzMQYzhbPmzQQq2r7qH6F1qnJT19EIwV20ciQyi2Fp5r-4W8kfQjSJupC_rROd44x9BfAn1ZJ35_0Z0Jjo1r65El14AvzedHm4qtmXLfsfLXPcNaD_Jrwk7jX_0w8ItbKdgVI/s1600/Image-front-cover_coverbookpage.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKC9KdX4uSzMQYzhbPmzQQq2r7qH6F1qnJT19EIwV20ciQyi2Fp5r-4W8kfQjSJupC_rROd44x9BfAn1ZJ35_0Z0Jjo1r65El14AvzedHm4qtmXLfsfLXPcNaD_Jrwk7jX_0w8ItbKdgVI/s200/Image-front-cover_coverbookpage.jpg" height="200" width="161" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;">A recent gift from my companion is '<b>More Straw Bale Building</b>' (from Mother Earth News and New Society Publishers), as she expects me to learn how to build with bales and get busy with making our country cottage dream home. So, I'm under orders to read it now. Yes darlin', it's right here in front of me. Maybe this fall I'll write a review of it here.</span></div>
<div class="post-title entry-title" itemprop="name" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-weight: normal; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi__TBBjVL5NVglTk-ehTMAXZUd4JfJBGS-9hm4quWKOA0PIQ3q5iont37JxoHbfBsuMIWtWJkufLiPicmB-BmjRDrzs-Ok0nNxB0LCI56R07aUIbJ9jb0ebeIPvS88OrbONaoeWzppXkWx/s1600/FrankChingbook.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi__TBBjVL5NVglTk-ehTMAXZUd4JfJBGS-9hm4quWKOA0PIQ3q5iont37JxoHbfBsuMIWtWJkufLiPicmB-BmjRDrzs-Ok0nNxB0LCI56R07aUIbJ9jb0ebeIPvS88OrbONaoeWzppXkWx/s200/FrankChingbook.jpg" height="200" width="156" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;">'<b>Building Construction Illustrated</b>' by Francis D.K. Ching should be possessed by every architect, designer, contractor, handyman, lumberyard, hardware store counterman, homeowner and Saturday morning thumb-banger. I think you get my drift. It's in its fourth edition now, my copy of the second edition was printed over twenty years ago, but still relevant. You can find it on Amazon, Ebay, and what few bookstores that are still left. Fire up that Kindle too....because you can download it for only 12.95 (no shipping cost!). My youngest granddaughter is just a year old, maybe I'll get it </span><span style="font-size: large;">for </span><span style="font-size: large;">her as a Christmas gift.</span><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEignC-f7PIqyKmvg_AYWmFUaw5OxLNyMMj2OzlXvLeGJunEnSjWvCYhGwnOdwKL8xxVNbM1jTp247u_j-T6kWQusKYTVojZR14CYm_0XGWuiBgN7ludB-y73GxTALr_iiQ7Jml2vjlEr7x3/s1600/Archive2012May.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEignC-f7PIqyKmvg_AYWmFUaw5OxLNyMMj2OzlXvLeGJunEnSjWvCYhGwnOdwKL8xxVNbM1jTp247u_j-T6kWQusKYTVojZR14CYm_0XGWuiBgN7ludB-y73GxTALr_iiQ7Jml2vjlEr7x3/s1600/Archive2012May.jpg" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;">The trade magazine </span><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://www.jlconline.com/"><b>Journal of Light Construction</b></a>
(JLC) is an excellent monthly 'encyclopedia' of construction
techniques. Most of the how-to articles are written by contractors
themselves. While I receive the hardcopy in the mail every month, I
often check their website for the free .PDF's to download. Tool reviews
and ads are helpful, too. Also available from JLC is a DVD-ROM of the
past 20-odd years of the magazine.</span><span style="font-size: large;"> </span><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcACkiSxkVFEHlhcHYdG3NnByT1LJI5j_7faJ7UYH2vQzUal-WQ_r7_VaMHTwzZCFI0BWEpYVNm7BoETX11Kqb8u-sihXpIl-XbqtKM3nd4etefPigqogpWvnMY2DlJ6YbnxLx5q57bG6M/s1600/jayhouse.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcACkiSxkVFEHlhcHYdG3NnByT1LJI5j_7faJ7UYH2vQzUal-WQ_r7_VaMHTwzZCFI0BWEpYVNm7BoETX11Kqb8u-sihXpIl-XbqtKM3nd4etefPigqogpWvnMY2DlJ6YbnxLx5q57bG6M/s200/jayhouse.jpg" height="200" width="164" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://www.tumbleweedhouses.com/"><b>Tumbleweeds Tiny House Company</b> </a>may not have been the first site to promote smaller houses, but Jay Shafer is the out-front leader of the tiny house movement. </span><span style="font-size: large;">For more than a decade,</span><span style="font-size: large;"> Jay has </span><span style="font-size: large;">been </span><span style="font-size: large;">living in 100 square feet or less. He has books, plans and advice for anyone considering downsizing to the smaller house. The house plans go from 65 sq.ft. to almost 900 sq.ft. Another site to see is Kent Griswold's <a href="http://tinyhouseblog.com/">TinyHouseBlog.com</a> for more big ideas about living small.</span></div>
<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQfMegvDUN8dXaGwg2Iqtfd-Qgh_UlFp-gaFcGpmFGRYWnsD5oNda7sNz0W-YnIngd5Cdael6fds0WG-1grrKpidQCDrQ4B90heyOX_zdRlBEFV3tPcG2whY9lBLmyzpT0k9edhulLwvgn/s1600/tth-logo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQfMegvDUN8dXaGwg2Iqtfd-Qgh_UlFp-gaFcGpmFGRYWnsD5oNda7sNz0W-YnIngd5Cdael6fds0WG-1grrKpidQCDrQ4B90heyOX_zdRlBEFV3tPcG2whY9lBLmyzpT0k9edhulLwvgn/s320/tth-logo.jpg" height="142" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Building the Future with the Past</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://tinytexashouses.com/"><b>Tiny Texas Houses</b></a> website is back online. They were offline for a while, and I'm glad that they're back up. I really like their designs and the fact that they
use as much recycled material as possible. I've placed the link back
on my link list and hope to see more of them in the future.<br />
</span></div>
<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<span style="font-size: large;"></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx1KRYMEHonms_LRXqQdamSO1_aq9oKP6hIRI4gb8V2q7BP08DTCy9OVMedtIlZc3zzwuZkzU-C99ox4u_uo_JK4S78BnMeQGvPNSFsK6olbkm4GQdi4rkliskymZPfoD4xp3fTlISRZWc/s1600/kneeslider01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx1KRYMEHonms_LRXqQdamSO1_aq9oKP6hIRI4gb8V2q7BP08DTCy9OVMedtIlZc3zzwuZkzU-C99ox4u_uo_JK4S78BnMeQGvPNSFsK6olbkm4GQdi4rkliskymZPfoD4xp3fTlISRZWc/s200/kneeslider01.jpg" height="80" width="200" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;">I keep <b><a href="http://thekneeslider.com/">The Kneeslider</a></b> in my link list which has absolutely nothing to do with housing, but I'm still a motorcycle maniac.
It's a well written blog by Paul Crowe, formerly of <i><b>Cycle World</b></i> magazine. He covers all brands of motorcycles (foreign and domestic), news and tech development.<br />
</span></div>
<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<span style="font-size: large;">Finally, for all of us tech-weenies and
garbage gadget-teers out there (we know who we are), the two sites that I
love most are; the <b><a href="http://www.technologyreview.com/">MIT Technology Review</a></b> and <b><a href="http://www.instructables.com/">Instructables</a></b> I get the MIT newsletter every weekday and the Instructables newsletter weekly, so be sure to sign up.</span></div>
auldhausdoktorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03678596017791302385noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8209423058070794716.post-61237377369034176422012-05-20T18:19:00.000-04:002012-05-26T09:49:31.259-04:00Coleman Quad Lantern<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhLEPgd2iLZMoIvrog-4HX5yKUElukXW-zFGmFsH_lNOQOE95MXeqNqaWAVOXxVqB0FSMv6tLUirNMpM3CKkXffaAd8oTszpUBe7Hpof70YpTWcn5QKX6rBli7KMIqbQnl9FjkbzeQFksq/s1600/coleman-quad-lantern.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhLEPgd2iLZMoIvrog-4HX5yKUElukXW-zFGmFsH_lNOQOE95MXeqNqaWAVOXxVqB0FSMv6tLUirNMpM3CKkXffaAd8oTszpUBe7Hpof70YpTWcn5QKX6rBli7KMIqbQnl9FjkbzeQFksq/s200/coleman-quad-lantern.jpg" width="200" /></a><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;"> I wanted a battery-operated lantern for when </span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">power outages </span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">occur </span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">(which in my area is several times a year)</span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">. </span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">About two years ago, </span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">my companion Mary found the Coleman LED Quad lantern at a warehouse store and bought it for me . </span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">We liked it so much </span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">that </span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">we immediately bought a second
one. </span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">The light output is a bright
cool white (190 lumens), it doesn't flicker like the fluorescent lanterns I
replaced with this unit and the batteries last longer. </span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">Besides handling its primary duty, we have used it in the back yard in the evening, and we've taken it to the cabin that our hiking club maintains. </span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The cabin has little outdoor lighting, so the ability to take the individual panels off
for the short hikes to the outhouse is a great thing</span></span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;"> and the panels have survived being dropped by small (and not so small) children. </span><br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQvmr0X6tfHNZntdcptp3tkMjxB72XJKKpS0yzu2ZCRzANUm-E_UzXtVh2XPnCerVsTA-_gbsdJG7ImSkFB7fBsSOFdGl_W6h9Iwa3xf42o7DNn5EQ67Wx5KdR4OPsFjvy0DJHqyIhIQCg/s1600/coleman-quad-lantern-21.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="116" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQvmr0X6tfHNZntdcptp3tkMjxB72XJKKpS0yzu2ZCRzANUm-E_UzXtVh2XPnCerVsTA-_gbsdJG7ImSkFB7fBsSOFdGl_W6h9Iwa3xf42o7DNn5EQ67Wx5KdR4OPsFjvy0DJHqyIhIQCg/s200/coleman-quad-lantern-21.jpg" width="200" /></a><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">Each panel has six LEDs and 3 NiCad AAA batteries that charge from the base unit 8 D-cell battery pack. Alkaline D-cells provide 1.5 volt each and NiCad or Lithium-ion </span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">rechargeable cells only put out 1.2 volts. While the lantern does work on 9.6 volts, it's brighter with the alkaline batteries. </span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;"> </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">Coleman makes a rechargeable 6 volt </span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">battery </span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">pack for the two panel LED lantern, but unfortunately, there's no 12 volt rechargeable </span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">pack for this lantern as yet. And while I'm making up my 'Santa list', </span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">I'd like to see a 5-to-10 watt solar panel charger for it, too. It would be nice to have a 'non-grid' way to recharge the unit for the extended power outages or when camping. I've been seeing the LED Quad lantern selling in the $50-to-75 price range, so check your favorite online retailers for the best price. We think it's wonderful product, reasonably priced for what it offers.
</span><style>
@font-face {
font-family: "Times New Roman";
}p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal { margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 12pt; font-family: Times; }table.MsoNormalTable { font-size: 10pt; font-family: "Times New Roman"; }div.Section1 { page: Section1; }
</style>auldhausdoktorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03678596017791302385noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8209423058070794716.post-27176050003111946512011-11-20T13:06:00.000-05:002012-05-26T09:54:56.372-04:00Passive House (PassivHaus Institut)<br />
<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">If you haven't heard of the "Passive House" </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">movemen</span></span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">t</span></span> <span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">or you just haven't heard what it means, I'll try to explain it best I can. Concerns over the effects of housing heat exhaust to the climate and pollution brought about the desire to eliminate as much energy/fuel use as possible. </span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">The <b>PassivHaus </b>movement </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">began in Germany during the mid-1990's and </span></span><span style="font-size: large;">it is the fastest growing energy
performance standard in the world with over 30,000 buildings built to
date. The PassivHaus ideal is simple; build a house that has excellent thermal performance (super-insulated), exceptional airtightness coupled with
mechanical ventilation. The building is heated by solar gain from windows and doors along with internal heat gain from people and electrical appliances. The summer cooling load is controlled by low-e coatings in the glass, window orientation and shading. Any remaining heating or cooling demands are covered by a small heating source. </span><span style="font-size: large;">Think of it as creating a livable thermos bottle, what
is warm stays warm without using a heat source most of the time. </span><span style="font-size: large;">As </span><span style="font-size: large;">Lloyd Alter of Treehugger.com says; "Forget Energy Star and LEED, green building is PassivHaus". </span></div>
<div id="byline" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiicfOero-KDm3g5acoZ-GE38VT61VHGwedb1NPY3Bz04yRAasufSh9bMeHBe1v2twTRjshUCY4DLX4HwUyo0N1O-ZxYSXWp4e26KnLGUDVShKbU56zB5JWXJllAc4MIy2EaHtpV7TJzr4-/s1600/passivhaus-section.jpg.644x0_q100_crop-smart.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="312" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiicfOero-KDm3g5acoZ-GE38VT61VHGwedb1NPY3Bz04yRAasufSh9bMeHBe1v2twTRjshUCY4DLX4HwUyo0N1O-ZxYSXWp4e26KnLGUDVShKbU56zB5JWXJllAc4MIy2EaHtpV7TJzr4-/s400/passivhaus-section.jpg.644x0_q100_crop-smart.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Graphics courtesy of PassivHaus Institit.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: large;">This approach to building design allows the architect to
minimize the heating demand of buildings, and may specify </span><span style="font-size: large;">only </span><span style="font-size: large;">a heated towel rail or small electric baseboard heater as the source
of conventional heating. </span><span style="font-size: large;">A mechanical Heat Recovery Ventilator</span><span style="font-size: large;"> (HRV) unit </span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">reduces indoor air pollution, by supplying fresh air which is filtered and </span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">heated </span><span style="font-size: large;">by the<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></span></span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;"> warm exhaust passing through the HRV unit. Triple pane windows and insulated doors, both with multiple weatherstripping sets are also required to bring the building into the standard.</span><br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSuwny4YyZNEtfTWO6VZK4-wB4gQcGccmRpupAZXgMfu7SrT-tk8yoNnT_44ZHYwg6Bpzg9u-0ExZ5Vts0xTrzlwSs-2_ai37aaozZXMEvJfaiK3SRYC4acZ3ScMJwwqyrfjH-ds9PKQjt/s1600/Passivhaus_thermogram.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="251" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSuwny4YyZNEtfTWO6VZK4-wB4gQcGccmRpupAZXgMfu7SrT-tk8yoNnT_44ZHYwg6Bpzg9u-0ExZ5Vts0xTrzlwSs-2_ai37aaozZXMEvJfaiK3SRYC4acZ3ScMJwwqyrfjH-ds9PKQjt/s400/Passivhaus_thermogram.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A PassHaus buliding to the right and a conventional structure across the street. </td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">While it's much easier to build a new structure to this standard than try </span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">to bring an existing building</span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;"> </span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">in</span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">to it, there are folks out there trying to do it. Basically the insulation required to come near PassivHaus standard is R50 walls and floor (yes, floors), R70 ceiling or roof. One method would have </span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">the interior of the house</span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;"> gutted before new inner walls can be constructed to provide ten-to-twelve inches of blown-in insulation space. At a green building seminar I attended last year, one Cleveland manufacturer showed off a custom six-inch thick XPS (extruded polystyrene) panel with molded-in steel studs for fast setup.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">A representative comes out and does measurements, wall panels are shop-constructed and brought to the site with electrical boxes mounted. The existing wall gets blown-in insulation, the XPS panel is mounted over that. Spray foam makes the airseal at any joints. Drywall is screwed to the embedded steel studs.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">Getting the house airtight enough seems the hardest thing to do, but finding the </span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">doors and windows that
meet the performance requirement is still difficult in the US. Read
'limited availability' as much higher cost. I estimate that to bring my 1925 Colonial-style (1400 sq-ft) home to near </span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">PassivHaus standards, </span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">would cost approximately 55-to-70 thousand USD. Though I'm sure that as more </span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">houses are brought into the </span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">PassivHaus standard, the prices of materials and services will drop.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;"></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;"></span></div>auldhausdoktorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03678596017791302385noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8209423058070794716.post-51502520708614249162011-09-03T13:55:00.001-04:002015-02-21T09:43:34.540-05:00A Shocking Surge--When lightning stikes<span style="font-size: large;"> </span><style>
@font-face {
font-family: "Times New Roman";
}@font-face {
font-family: "Arial";
}@font-face {
font-family: "Baskerville";
}p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal { margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 12pt; font-family: "Times New Roman"; }table.MsoNormalTable { font-size: 10pt; font-family: "Times New Roman"; }span.A0 { font-size: 9pt; color: black; font-weight: bold; }div.Section1 { page: Section1; }
</style><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: large;">I’ve had a long history of dodging lightning, I sometimes have a feeling that someone up there is using me for target practice. One instance back in the mid-70’s, I was sitting in my car at a gas station in Tampa, FL, a iron post about twenty feet from my front bumper was struck by lightning. I was so surprised that I jerked violently, bent the steering wheel, and rocked the whole car. The pump-jockey laughed and said, “Ya best get used to that around here, man.” That was not the first – and certainly not the last – close call I’ve had with lightning. </span> <br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: large;">During a storm about a few years ago, </span><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: large;">lightning </span></span><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: large;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: large;">struck </span>the service pole at the end of my property. Because my electrical service box is connected to two 8 foot-long grounding rods in the earth outside the house, the surge did not affect the house wiring or appliances. But unfortunately, there was an ineffective connection (a corroded clamp on an outdoor hose spigot) to the ground for the phone system. Because of that, the lightning was able to enter my house by way of the phone line, taking out the computer modem, answering machine, and three telephones.</span></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5ouQ9VgauVY8YjUGA5IUFixW1EZeRTbhhPchHAx7elNod142yad7uMImUviEP7nzn79nFZVx76QPiTG3dea-KqpmuwixXTrpB8OlKEnMSfL_lrjKbWMFse7yHge8lEXSTIr83Bekfzpbm/s1600/phonebox.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5ouQ9VgauVY8YjUGA5IUFixW1EZeRTbhhPchHAx7elNod142yad7uMImUviEP7nzn79nFZVx76QPiTG3dea-KqpmuwixXTrpB8OlKEnMSfL_lrjKbWMFse7yHge8lEXSTIr83Bekfzpbm/s320/phonebox.jpg" height="320" width="236" /></a></span><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: large;">Because electrical, TV cable, and phone services in my area all come in on overhead wires, they can act as an antenna for lightning. Even buried wires can be affected if the strike is near them. So, it's important to have adequate grounding capacity to dissipate the surge into the earth. If you have had a new electrical service panel installed in the past ten years, you should have one or more grounding rods installed outside. My local electrical inspector insists upon a minimum of two rods. Older panels may only be grounded by one rod – or have no outside rod at all – so you may want to add additional rods for protection. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: large;">Inside the telephone interface box, there is a lightning arrestor on the company access side. To protect your phone lines, connect a 10-gauge wire from the arrestor to the ground rods for your electrical service panel. (You may have to contact your phone provider to get into that side of the box.)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-lQQQGRXoXERJmcYNWgsVuRwavOp37IoSGZSpiAcdWte-g7fi0wXgLb7h5o7ZLtG_ftJ-z1Ppe9CYif5s73e7J1muvJs3tuMWzq8gZVR1zPAGri6pHtLI61CW70cjl3oFar9gh_0coT84/s1600/coaxgrnd.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-lQQQGRXoXERJmcYNWgsVuRwavOp37IoSGZSpiAcdWte-g7fi0wXgLb7h5o7ZLtG_ftJ-z1Ppe9CYif5s73e7J1muvJs3tuMWzq8gZVR1zPAGri6pHtLI61CW70cjl3oFar9gh_0coT84/s200/coaxgrnd.jpg" height="138" width="200" /></a></span><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: large;">And, while you’re at it, install a coax grounding connector on the TV cable on the outside of the house, route a wire to the ground rods</span><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: large;"> and</span><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: large;"> clamp the wire to them. If you have </span><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: large;">outdoor TV or radio antennas, you can ground them</span><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: large;"> with </span><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: large;">a coax grounding connector as well. </span><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: large;">The whole idea here is to divert any surges directly to the earth instead of allowing them to come into the house.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaqPo_NDK3I4F22YWHyYafLfMitxhYX00KvxEr7fPDF_c-8Ugj81OYe_DAoS0lpat8XmNDa-HyJYO5NJ12yKg51-uqE4fIT-pQGymd4gD4_0AP0K1IVvRa5subYPrD3z4zGNKosFPGgigx/s1600/panelguard.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaqPo_NDK3I4F22YWHyYafLfMitxhYX00KvxEr7fPDF_c-8Ugj81OYe_DAoS0lpat8XmNDa-HyJYO5NJ12yKg51-uqE4fIT-pQGymd4gD4_0AP0K1IVvRa5subYPrD3z4zGNKosFPGgigx/s320/panelguard.jpg" height="252" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: large;">Finally, you might consider a whole-house surge suppression unit that mounts onto the service panel. They are designed to protect all of your household appliances and electronics from all voltage spikes besides lightning. Some </span><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: large;">surge suppressors </span><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: large;"> are one-time use ($80-100), others are resettable and retail for $120-150. Not a bad idea to get one, considering what it could cost to replace all your major electric appliances.</span></div>
auldhausdoktorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03678596017791302385noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8209423058070794716.post-60380464401102189452011-08-03T18:25:00.091-04:002011-09-03T19:24:40.399-04:00Home By The Numbers<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><style>
@font-face {
font-family: "Times New Roman";
}p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal { margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 12pt; font-family: "Times New Roman"; }table.MsoNormalTable { font-size: 10pt; font-family: "Times New Roman"; }div.Section1 { page: Section1; }
</style> </div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">Uh-yup, I’m just another one of those aging baby boomers and my eyes ain’t what they used to be.<span> </span>Of course, I blame my failing eyesight on my son and daughter.<span> </span>Each time they have given me a new grandchild, (I have four) my eyes have taken a dive.<span> </span>I didn’t have to wear glasses before the first one was born, now I can’t find my way around the house without the specs. I guess I'm descending into geezerhood.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">So I’m out looking for this house a few weeks ago and after driving by three times, burning up expensive gas--I still can’t find the address I was given.<span> </span>One house had three numbers nailed to a tree but it was a neighborhood with four-number addresses and next two houses had no numbers visible on the entry.<span> </span>By looking at the addresses across the street, I made a deduction at which house I had my appointment.<span> </span>When I pulled up to the house I finally saw the address plaque under the bushes next to the driveway.<span> </span>The numbers were about 2 inches high on a rusted black background that blended well into the shadows and while I might be due for a new prescription for glasses, it was mighty hard to see that plaque from the street in daylight.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwyLSIMmWb-RSrsMjhzFxLFpBEpJHuI3sqPgKHXpwBEAk7hcg3EtwXL6M30wbeNHVaYsc2TbKXJUb7un2Kx5VL8PuDzjPhMrA9JxRy6m80dQSKLXCeR7vTmNsXzDhTw0IjOagb8vw-8dUk/s1600/housenumber.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="167" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwyLSIMmWb-RSrsMjhzFxLFpBEpJHuI3sqPgKHXpwBEAk7hcg3EtwXL6M30wbeNHVaYsc2TbKXJUb7un2Kx5VL8PuDzjPhMrA9JxRy6m80dQSKLXCeR7vTmNsXzDhTw0IjOagb8vw-8dUk/s200/housenumber.jpg" width="200" /></a></span><span style="font-size: large;">Now think for a moment about emergency responders (Fire-EMS-Police) trying to find that house address in the dark, if the numbers hard are to find—it can cause delays.<span> </span>I’ve decided to display my address in a couple of places. The original set (3 inches tall) is still right next to my front door near the doorbell button.<span> </span>The new set (6 inches tall) is at the end of my porch roof under a light.<span> </span>It’s well illuminated at night when I turn on the porch light and the pizza delivery guy said he really likes that.<span> </span>In my hometown, the city code (see it below) doesn’t say the address has be right at the front door, it should be near by. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">Another thing that I see a lot is the house numbers that have been painted over with the siding color. <span> </span>Once the sun goes down, they just blend into the wall and are invisible.<span> </span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><i><b>1351.32 STREET NUMBERS.</b></i></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><i> Every dwelling structure shall have the correct street number of such dwelling prominently displayed so that it is clearly visible at all times from the street in front of the property. The numbers shall be numerals, not in script, and they must be at least three (3) inches high and in contrasting colors. Such numbers shall be placed in close proximity to the main front entrance to the building.<span> </span>(Cleveland Heights OH Ord. 67-1971)</i></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDPYIo7FTNMlxMMnW7omm7v9ejzvIo49ywba7I01H3owuW8bk1Z2d-J8YQTars3BBwRusV73aq7MrWsUm1ksdDuShXJ85Xg6zlSwYPwIhygb6pxNwkmPpRZfCRaWgRMrRd9mk4myMO1sQ2/s1600/1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDPYIo7FTNMlxMMnW7omm7v9ejzvIo49ywba7I01H3owuW8bk1Z2d-J8YQTars3BBwRusV73aq7MrWsUm1ksdDuShXJ85Xg6zlSwYPwIhygb6pxNwkmPpRZfCRaWgRMrRd9mk4myMO1sQ2/s200/1.jpg" width="105" /></a></span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">Many communities will ticket a homeowner for not having an address on the house and the Post Office can refuse to deliver the mail when the address is missing. </span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">If you don't have a roadside mailbox and the house sits back a long way from the street </span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">or is hidden </span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">from view by plantings or terrain, a post with the address should used at the end of the driveway. So just maybe, this old geezer will be able to find your house.</span></span><i><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"> </span></span></i><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></span></span><i><br />
</i></span></div>auldhausdoktorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03678596017791302385noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8209423058070794716.post-25376382801389343792011-07-11T11:28:00.004-04:002012-05-26T10:42:05.789-04:00My Summer Reading List<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<span style="font-size: large;">Just a quick note; I've discovered today that the Texas Tiny House website is back online. It's a shame they were offline, because I really like their designs and the fact that they used as much recycled material as possible. I've placed the link back on my link list and hope to see more of them in the future.<br />
</span></div>
<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihEgPrNtoYRVkhh6Bp4WpEjBFPNFPtVO1_ZdWFBAMkl8KLVreLTEIWXorcMW-8EkWxVb7HgZcdn6glbLFy_ga_v54swxow4NEYqvJGG0ESQvsmCSt694AeJdpZo6HxaGQXhjP4zkFk9i47/s1600/small-square-ad-for-smalltopia.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihEgPrNtoYRVkhh6Bp4WpEjBFPNFPtVO1_ZdWFBAMkl8KLVreLTEIWXorcMW-8EkWxVb7HgZcdn6glbLFy_ga_v54swxow4NEYqvJGG0ESQvsmCSt694AeJdpZo6HxaGQXhjP4zkFk9i47/s200/small-square-ad-for-smalltopia.jpg" width="200" /></a><span style="font-size: large;">For some new small-living lifestyle ideas, check out; <b><a href="http://tammystrobel.com/smalltopia/">Smalltopia: A Practical Guide to Working for Yourself </a></b>by Tammy Strobel. You can preview the first chapter of her book at the bottom of her page.<br />
</span></div>
<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<span style="font-size: large;">I added <b><a href="http://thekneeslider.com/">The Kneeslider blog</a></b> to my link list which has absolutely nothing to do with housing, but I know that many folks (even an old cuss like me) are motorcycle maniacs. It's well written by Paul Crowe, formerly of <i><b>Cycle World</b></i> magazine. He covers all brands of motorcycles (foreign and domestic), news and tech development.<br />
</span></div>
<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<span style="font-size: large;">Finally, for all you tech-weenies and garbage gadget-teers out there (we know who we are), the two sites that I love most are; the <b><a href="http://www.technologyreview.com/">MIT Technology Review</a></b> and <b><a href="http://www.instructables.com/">Instructables</a></b> I get the MIT newsletter every weekday and the Instructables newsletter weekly, so be sure to sign up.</span></div>auldhausdoktorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03678596017791302385noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8209423058070794716.post-2553112183049178232011-06-26T18:08:00.002-04:002015-02-21T08:49:10.956-05:00Hanging Stuff 0n Plaster Walls<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<style>
@font-face {
font-family: "Times New Roman";
}p.<span style="background: none repeat scroll 0% 0% yellow;" class="goog-spellcheck-word">MsoNormal</span>, <span style="background: none repeat scroll 0% 0% yellow;" class="goog-spellcheck-word">li</span>.<span style="background: none repeat scroll 0% 0% yellow;" class="goog-spellcheck-word">MsoNormal</span>, div.<span style="background: none repeat scroll 0% 0% yellow;" class="goog-spellcheck-word">MsoNormal</span> { margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 12pt; font-family: Times; }table.<span style="background: none repeat scroll 0% 0% yellow;" class="goog-spellcheck-word">MsoNormalTable</span> { font-size: 10pt; font-family: "Times New Roman"; }div.Section1 { page: Section1; }
</style> </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaBp0oF5hly0q3aN8UyytXoulWkM6ZscB6R1apHj-W2XcSvcqJQf5yi54QgBSLfptbd0GoXog6OXHBfOfLrs_9f2a3mMB8IxGvMd9oe2F66C68OOTsuW9MzweF5EOGnO7VNc-vUIQxKFrH/s1600/Plasterwall.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaBp0oF5hly0q3aN8UyytXoulWkM6ZscB6R1apHj-W2XcSvcqJQf5yi54QgBSLfptbd0GoXog6OXHBfOfLrs_9f2a3mMB8IxGvMd9oe2F66C68OOTsuW9MzweF5EOGnO7VNc-vUIQxKFrH/s400/Plasterwall.jpg" height="400" width="222" /></a>Lath-and-plaster walls are common in houses constructed from the late 18<sup>th</sup> Century until the early 1950’s when drywall became the common building technique. Whether it’s that oil portrait of Great-great Aunt Sadie or kitchen cabinets, hanging things onto older lath-and-plaster walls can present a bit of a dilemma. So, if you don’t want to see old Sadie crashing down onto the piano in the parlor, you’ll need to learn how to attach things to the walls. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<span style="font-size: large;">First, let’s describe how lath-and-plaster walls are constructed. Once the house was framed (generally with the studs at 16” on centers); the exterior sheathing, siding completed, and the doors, windows and mechanicals (plumbing, heating, electrical) installed, the plasterers would start covering the walls with wood strips called ‘lath’. The lath would be </span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: large;">about </span>3/8” thick, 1-1/2” wide and 48” long with a gap of 3/8” between them. A thick layer of gypsum-based coarse plaster (gray or brown colored) was troweled onto the lath until it oozed through forming ‘keys’ that held the plaster to the lath. A thin layer of white finish plaster was applied once the coarse layer had cured.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<span style="font-size: large;">To attach lightweight items to the walls, drive a nail or screw into the wall. If the nail goes through easily, pull it out and go up or down a 1/2” and try again to get into the lath. But the hard, fast rule of hanging anything on a plaster wall--if it's more than a pound-or-so, find a stud and screw or nail your item to that. Also, it’s best to attach switch and outlet workboxes directly to the studs so they won’t become loose and move about as you try to use them. That all said, how do you find the studs? Well, some of the old-timers used a powerful magnet to locate the lath nails (My grandfather kept a small horse-shoe shaped magnet inside the lid of his metal tool box just for that job). Gramp would wrap a piece of wax paper around the magnet to keep it from marring the wall finish. He would sweep the magnet horizontally across the wall until he felt the tug on the magnet over the nail. Then he would slide it vertically to see he could tell if there were more nails indicating the stud.</span><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizpME9UAS-mQHJDO0o7BWvfc6Q-vy5T4-zhvSZu2PSDLX0etNvI9sXtea0A6A3oYN6d5Zsl19sXOE59aN5UCqJn3IwWwRnnjQq9RU4bj74rNZMvCZvd2spOyh_dlpA5szlgcVvsmofZtqx/s1600/magnetic.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizpME9UAS-mQHJDO0o7BWvfc6Q-vy5T4-zhvSZu2PSDLX0etNvI9sXtea0A6A3oYN6d5Zsl19sXOE59aN5UCqJn3IwWwRnnjQq9RU4bj74rNZMvCZvd2spOyh_dlpA5szlgcVvsmofZtqx/s200/magnetic.jpg" height="200" width="200" /></a><span style="font-size: large;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"> Many years ago, tool manufacturers came up with a swiveling magnetic stud finder in a clear plastic vial. This finder locates the lath nail in the plaster. Keeping with my family tradition, </span><span style="font-size: large;">I keep </span><span style="font-size: large;">some powerful rare-earth magnets </span><span style="font-size: large;">inside the lid of my tool box</span><span style="font-size: large;"> that a friend had salvaged from some old computer hard-drives. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU2UESsCqf_G41ngXKhlMQL1OqeDWxaim6cor9NSO5dx7W6-Kn2D-Ak2e4qRL2YaDSkDspIwK5k4LRsFrzn2ZKVPdAjgwaRurbeyohDKs5hNz3Mu1bTyD5xCveI3UQ6xDj4-lK_AaR0YQf/s1600/studfinder.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU2UESsCqf_G41ngXKhlMQL1OqeDWxaim6cor9NSO5dx7W6-Kn2D-Ak2e4qRL2YaDSkDspIwK5k4LRsFrzn2ZKVPdAjgwaRurbeyohDKs5hNz3Mu1bTyD5xCveI3UQ6xDj4-lK_AaR0YQf/s200/studfinder.jpg" height="200" width="200" /></a></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<span style="font-size: large;">In this our semiconductor era, someone had invented an electronic stud finder. They have been on the market for quite a long time and they usually work well on drywall</span><span style="font-size: large;">, </span><span style="font-size: large;">though </span><span style="font-size: large;">sometimes, they have a problem locating a stud in a plaster wall.</span><span style="font-size: large;"> I have a few different brands, but all of them measure the density of the wall to locate the stud. The uneven distribution of plaster behind the lath can give you false readings. So, I continue use my magnet (as Gramp did) to find the nails.</span></div>
auldhausdoktorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03678596017791302385noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8209423058070794716.post-23081211722802012942011-05-26T17:26:00.024-04:002012-05-31T11:48:10.097-04:00Compact Fluorescent Lamp (CFL)<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<span style="font-size: large;"> I just hate coming home to a dark house, and I don’t want new lumps on my shins from smacking into the cabinets by the back door or tripping over the dogs.</span><style>
@font-face {
font-family: "Times New Roman";
}p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal { margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 12pt; font-family: Times; }table.MsoNormalTable { font-size: 10pt; font-family: "Times New Roman"; }div.Section1 { page: Section1; }
</style><span style="font-size: large;"> So, to prevent all that excitement from happening, I have a lamp on a timer in the kitchen and on the back porch there is a fixture with a photo-eye switch so I can find the lock on the door.</span><span style="font-size: large;"> I use low-wattage compact fluorescent lamps in those lights </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihRhO_Kd_BHy5mOhLp2S7QQ_oJ2uTd1wzoZBKHobfKLlcJ1iePXMR0Ene9V3sRcrgOwVTyYqSULFQJ9DzTMEKCr9m3iGMyn2XOVbvg7Y5hIkoPsQjThUeeEb9EbEFhb2amGxq_WZOar41t/s1600/CFLBulb.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihRhO_Kd_BHy5mOhLp2S7QQ_oJ2uTd1wzoZBKHobfKLlcJ1iePXMR0Ene9V3sRcrgOwVTyYqSULFQJ9DzTMEKCr9m3iGMyn2XOVbvg7Y5hIkoPsQjThUeeEb9EbEFhb2amGxq_WZOar41t/s200/CFLBulb.jpg" width="103" /></a>A compact fluorescent lamp (CFL) is a miniaturized fluorescent tube packaged into an integral ballast screw base that can be installed into nearly any table lamp or lighting fixture.</span><span style="font-size: large;"> A common style is a spring shaped tube but some others have a long u-shaped tube.</span><span style="font-size: large;"> Also, there are floodlight bulbs for exterior use or for recessed ceiling fixtures.</span><span style="font-size: large;"> Some u-shaped fluorescents are of the "modular" type, having bulbs and ballasts that can be separated and replaced separately.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<span style="font-size: large;">CFLs are being promoted as energy savings alternatives to incandescent lamps.</span><span style="font-size: large;"> Some CFLs are guaranteed for 8,000-to-10,000 hours. (Incandescent bulbs typically last 800-1000 hours.)</span><span style="font-size: large;"> CFLs use about four times less electricity. For example, a 13-<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Watt"><span style="color: #002bb8; text-decoration: none;">watt</span></a> CFL produces the same amount of light as a 60-watt incandescent bulb (approximately 850 <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lumen_%28unit%29"><span style="color: #002bb8; text-decoration: none;">lumens</span></a>) and remains much cooler.</span><span style="font-size: large;"> But many folks didn’t want to pay the higher cost for the fluorescents which was typically about $6-to-$10.</span><span style="font-size: large;"> The prices have been coming down and the big-box homecenters are selling a six-pack of 13-watt bulbs for about $10 (about $1.67 each).</span><span style="font-size: large;"> So, besides saving money on the electric bill, it also helps to reduce pollution created by the generating plant</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZG0CuD2gZF4bKnTluEYi2mfgC09GpDtoRR_I4HF3M30dRGUBmnOxe74ontEZp57Vcfhpg-zqrq1K3uZAzeHtbjksO-z1J6UxRaG6GwP1RQI_15-awnpEiBHUOauK-c5kG-Nj9w4Wq3Q84/s1600/CFLflood.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="193" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZG0CuD2gZF4bKnTluEYi2mfgC09GpDtoRR_I4HF3M30dRGUBmnOxe74ontEZp57Vcfhpg-zqrq1K3uZAzeHtbjksO-z1J6UxRaG6GwP1RQI_15-awnpEiBHUOauK-c5kG-Nj9w4Wq3Q84/s200/CFLflood.jpg" width="200" /></a></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<span style="font-size: large;">As well as the good, there are some not-so-good things about CFLs.</span><span style="font-size: large;"> Many companies use a tiny amount of mercury in the manufacturing process, so care should be exercised in handling or disposing of them. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Talk to your city waste management department to if they have a recycling program for CFLs. Compact fluorescent lamps usually do not produce full light output until they warm up for a minute.</span><span style="font-size: large;"> In an outdoor fixture in cold weather, the CFL may need about several minutes to fully warm up and will produce as little as 25 percent of its light output when first started.</span><span style="font-size: large;"> The light produced is not the same color quality as incandescent bulbs, and this can distort color rendering of walls and furnishings, but the newest models have come close to eliminating this issue.</span><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<span style="font-size: large;">Compact fluorescent lamps, to work well, need to be used in lamps with polarized plugs.</span><span style="font-size: large;"> The large prong on the plug is the <b><i>neutral</i></b>, and is wired to the threaded shell of the bulb socket.</span><span style="font-size: large;"> The smaller prong on the plug is the <b><i>hot</i></b>, and is wired to the brass tab in the bottom of the bulb socket.</span><span style="font-size: large;"> This design allows the bulb to light reliably during its entire service life.</span><span style="font-size: large;"> Most CFLs won’t work with an ordinary dimmer switch, you will need to purchase bulbs rated for dimmer use.</span><span style="font-size: large;"> Lastly, they are often physically larger than incandescent bulbs they replace and simply may not fit the lamp or fixture at all.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span></div>
<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>auldhausdoktorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03678596017791302385noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8209423058070794716.post-40528694352524003152011-02-15T14:45:00.000-05:002012-05-26T10:40:11.100-04:00Radiant Floor Heating<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: large;">At this time of year I get a lot of questions about heating systems and most recently several questions about Radiant Floor Heating retrofits. While I’m the first to tell you that I’m not a heating guy, efficient heating has long been an interest of mine. So I went to the Department of Energy website and others find some information for you.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 9pt;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: large;">There are radiant heating systems can supply heat directly to the floor or to panels in the wall or ceiling of a house. The delivery of heat directly from the hot surface to the people and objects in the room via the radiation of heat is known as infrared radiation. If you ever walked along a brick wall just after the sun sets, the stored-up warmth you feel is infrared radiation. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 9pt;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: large;">Radiant heating is more efficient than baseboard heating and usually much more efficient than forced-air heating because no energy is lost through the ductwork. The lack of moving air can also be advantageous to people with severe allergies as dust and pet dander or germs are not lofted into every room. Forced air systems also tend to dehumidify the air more than radiant systems and dry out our skin and noses. Hydronic (liquid-based) systems generally use high-efficiency boilers that burn less gas than forced air furnaces and steam boilers. The hydronic systems can also be heated with a variety of energy sources, including gas-or-oil-fired boilers, wood-fired boilers, solar water heaters, or a combination of these sources. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 9pt;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: large;">There are radiant air floors (air is the heat-carrying medium); electric radiant floors; and hot water (hydronic) radiant floors. Air does not hold large amounts of heat, radiant air floors are not cost-effective in most applications, and are rarely installed. Because of the relatively high cost of electricity, electric radiant floors are usually found locally in bathrooms, systems that feature mats of electrically conductive plastic and are mounted onto the subfloor below a tile floor covering. The majority of radiant systems I have seen in this region are floors heated by gas-fired hydronic (hot water) boiler setups.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 9pt;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: large;">Hydronic (liquid) systems use less gas than furnaces or steam to warm the house. Hydronic radiant floor systems pump heated water from a boiler through tubing laid in a pattern underneath the floor. Systems installed in the 1940’s to the ‘70’s used copper piping, in the 1980’s plastic piping such as PEX became commonly used. In some systems, the temperature in each room is controlled by regulating the flow of hot water through each tubing loop. This is done by a system of zoning valves or pumps and thermostats. The cost of installing a hydronic radiant floor varies by geographical location and also depends on the size of the home, the type of installation, the floor covering, remoteness of the site, and the cost of labor.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 9pt;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: large;">A "wet" installation embeds the tubing within a concrete floor slab (commonly used in "slab" ranch houses that don't have basements) and is the oldest form of modern radiant floor systems. The tubing can be embedded in a thin layer of lightweight gypsum concrete, or other material installed on top of a wood subfloor. If concrete is used and the new floor is not on solid earth, additional floor structure may be necessary because of the added weight. A structural engineer should be consulted to determine the floor's load-carrying capacity.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 9pt;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: large;">"Dry" floors, in which the tubing run beneath a wood floor, have been gaining in popularity, mainly because a dry floor is faster and less expensive to build. But because dry floors involve heating some air space, the radiant heating system may need to operate at a higher temperature. A common retrofit installation involves suspending the tubing underneath the subfloor between the joists. This method usually requires the basement ceiling removed and drilling holes through the floor joists in order to install the tubing. Reflective insulation is installed under the tubes to direct the heat upward. In new construction, the tubing can be installed from above the subfloor, between the subfloor and finish flooring. In these instances, the tubing is often fitted into aluminum diffusers that spread the water's heat across the floor in order to heat the floor more evenly. The tubing and heat diffusers are secured between furring strips (sleepers), which carry the weight of the new subfloor and finished floor surface.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 9pt;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: large;">Several companies now make a plywood subfloor material manufactured with tubing tracks and aluminum heat diffuser plates built into them. The manufacturers state that this product makes a radiant floor system (for new construction) considerably less expensive to install and faster to react to room temperature changes.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 9pt;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: large;">Ceramic and stone tiles are common and effective floor coverings for a concrete slab radiant floor, as it conducts heat well from the floor and adds thermal storage because of its high heat capacity. One building I’ve seen recently had a color-stained, polished concrete floor, which I found the thought of being barefoot on warm concrete in February as intriguing. Common floor coverings like vinyl and linoleum sheet goods, carpeting, or wood can also be used, but any covering that helps to insulate the floor from the room will decrease the efficiency of the system.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 9pt;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: large;">Most of the sites that I’ve read make these statements, if you want carpeting, use a thin carpet with dense padding and install as little carpeting as possible. Wood flooring should be laminated wood flooring instead of solid wood. This reduces the possibility of the wood shrinking and cracking from the drying effects of the heat. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<br /></div>auldhausdoktorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03678596017791302385noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8209423058070794716.post-63638497557818028782011-01-07T12:45:00.002-05:002011-01-13T17:19:50.391-05:00Smoke Detectors<div align="center"><table border="0" cellpadding="0" class="MsoNormalTable" style="height: 695px; margin: auto auto auto 22.5pt; width: 452px;"><tbody>
<tr><td colspan="3" style="background-color: transparent; border-bottom: rgb(240,240,240); border-left: rgb(240,240,240); border-right: rgb(240,240,240); border-top: rgb(240,240,240); padding-bottom: 0.75pt; padding-left: 0.75pt; padding-right: 0.75pt; padding-top: 0.75pt; width: 424.5pt;" width="566"><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-align: left;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt;">In the course of my work, I am in a lot of houses. I’ve seen some poor housekeeping, bad wiring and many other serious things that would ordinarily cause a building to be condemned. But, in households with small children; what especially scares me are non-functioning smoke detectors. The common cause for the malfunction that the batteries are dead or missing.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt;">According to<b> National Fire Protection Association</b> (NFPA) research; more than half of all residential fire fatalities occur at night while people are sleeping. Smoke detectors cut the risk of fatalities in a home fire almost in half. Ensure that your smoke detectors are working, test it monthly by pushing the test button. The only real maintenance needed to keep your smoke detector in proper working order is to install new batteries twice a year. Many folks change batteries when they change their clocks for daylight savings time. While you have the cover open, a quick vacuuming would finish the job.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt;">Placing Smoke Detectors<br />
To ensure that a smoke detector will work as it was designed, read the manufacturer's instructions for installation. Usually, the proper placement is on the ceiling. However, if a wall is be used, install the smoke detector(s) at a distance of 4”-to-6" from the ceiling. </span><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman", "serif"; font-size: 12pt;"></span></div></td></tr>
<tr><td colspan="2" style="background-color: transparent; border-bottom: rgb(240,240,240); border-left: rgb(240,240,240); border-right: rgb(240,240,240); border-top: rgb(240,240,240); padding-bottom: 0.75pt; padding-left: 0.75pt; padding-right: 0.75pt; padding-top: 0.75pt; width: 409.5pt;" width="546"><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt;">Smoke detectors should be installed on every level of your home, including the basement and attic. Install one smoke detector outside each sleeping area in your home. Place smoke detectors away from the kitchen so cooking vapors will not cause nuisance alarms. </span><br />
<span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt;"><b>Note:</b> Smoke detectors should be replaced every 5-to-10 years. If you have just moved in to a house and the detectors look old, just change them immediately. </span></div></td><td style="background-color: transparent; border-bottom: rgb(240,240,240); border-left: rgb(240,240,240); border-right: rgb(240,240,240); border-top: rgb(240,240,240); padding-bottom: 0in; padding-left: 0in; padding-right: 0in; padding-top: 0in;" width="18"><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;"><br />
</div></td></tr>
<tr><td colspan="3" style="background-color: transparent; border-bottom: rgb(240,240,240); border-left: rgb(240,240,240); border-right: rgb(240,240,240); border-top: rgb(240,240,240); padding-bottom: 0.75pt; padding-left: 0.75pt; padding-right: 0.75pt; padding-top: 0.75pt; width: 424.5pt;" width="566"><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt;"><br />
Create a plan for when an alarm sounds. Every second is critical, make sure your family has an escape plan in case an alarm sounds. Have a fire drill so that everyone understands where to go. Remember to stay low under smoke where the air is fresher, cooler and easier to breathe.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt;">These are the essentials of a good plan to follow.</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman", "serif"; font-size: 12pt;"></span></div></td></tr>
<tr><td style="background-color: transparent; border-bottom: rgb(240,240,240); border-left: rgb(240,240,240); border-right: rgb(240,240,240); border-top: rgb(240,240,240); padding-bottom: 0.75pt; padding-left: 0.75pt; padding-right: 0.75pt; padding-top: 0.75pt; width: 27pt;" width="36"><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"><br />
</div></td><td colspan="2" style="background-color: transparent; border-bottom: rgb(240,240,240); border-left: rgb(240,240,240); border-right: rgb(240,240,240); border-top: rgb(240,240,240); padding-bottom: 0.75pt; padding-left: 0.75pt; padding-right: 0.75pt; padding-top: 0.75pt; width: 5.5in;" width="528"><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt;">Plan two ways out of every room.</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman", "serif"; font-size: 12pt;"></span></div></td></tr>
<tr><td style="background-color: transparent; border-bottom: rgb(240,240,240); border-left: rgb(240,240,240); border-right: rgb(240,240,240); border-top: rgb(240,240,240); padding-bottom: 0.75pt; padding-left: 0.75pt; padding-right: 0.75pt; padding-top: 0.75pt; width: 27pt;" width="36"><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"><br />
</div></td><td colspan="2" style="background-color: transparent; border-bottom: rgb(240,240,240); border-left: rgb(240,240,240); border-right: rgb(240,240,240); border-top: rgb(240,240,240); padding-bottom: 0.75pt; padding-left: 0.75pt; padding-right: 0.75pt; padding-top: 0.75pt; width: 5.5in;" width="528"><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt;">Make sure you can open doors and windows in every room.</span></div></td></tr>
<tr><td style="background-color: transparent; border-bottom: rgb(240,240,240); border-left: rgb(240,240,240); border-right: rgb(240,240,240); border-top: rgb(240,240,240); padding-bottom: 0.75pt; padding-left: 0.75pt; padding-right: 0.75pt; padding-top: 0.75pt; width: 27pt;" width="36"><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"><br />
</div></td><td colspan="2" style="background-color: transparent; border-bottom: rgb(240,240,240); border-left: rgb(240,240,240); border-right: rgb(240,240,240); border-top: rgb(240,240,240); padding-bottom: 0.75pt; padding-left: 0.75pt; padding-right: 0.75pt; padding-top: 0.75pt; width: 5.5in;" width="528"><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt;">Designate a family meeting place outside the home.</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman", "serif"; font-size: 12pt;"></span></div></td></tr>
<tr><td style="background-color: transparent; border-bottom: rgb(240,240,240); border-left: rgb(240,240,240); border-right: rgb(240,240,240); border-top: rgb(240,240,240); padding-bottom: 0.75pt; padding-left: 0.75pt; padding-right: 0.75pt; padding-top: 0.75pt; width: 27pt;" width="36"><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"><br />
</div></td><td colspan="2" style="background-color: transparent; border-bottom: rgb(240,240,240); border-left: rgb(240,240,240); border-right: rgb(240,240,240); border-top: rgb(240,240,240); padding-bottom: 0.75pt; padding-left: 0.75pt; padding-right: 0.75pt; padding-top: 0.75pt; width: 5.5in;" width="528"><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt;">Once outside, call 911. Do not re-enter the home.</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman", "serif"; font-size: 12pt;"></span></div></td></tr>
<tr height="0"><td style="background-color: transparent; border-bottom: rgb(240,240,240); border-left: rgb(240,240,240); border-right: rgb(240,240,240); border-top: rgb(240,240,240);" width="39"></td><td style="background-color: transparent; border-bottom: rgb(240,240,240); border-left: rgb(240,240,240); border-right: rgb(240,240,240); border-top: rgb(240,240,240);" width="510"></td><td style="background-color: transparent; border-bottom: rgb(240,240,240); border-left: rgb(240,240,240); border-right: rgb(240,240,240); border-top: rgb(240,240,240);" width="21"></td></tr>
</tbody></table><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Operation Save-a-Life, a program of the American Red Cross and the Cleveland Heights Fire Department, provides <b>FREE</b> smoke alarms and batteries to Cleveland Heights residents. Smoke alarms are distributed by Cleveland Heights firefighters at no cost to residents. To apply for a free smoke alarm (verification of residency required), visit the Fire Chief's Office, located at Cleveland</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif"; font-size: 9pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Heights City Hall, 40 Severance Circle.</span></div><br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: left;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">For those of you outside of Cleveland Heights, try calling your local chapter of the </span><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">American Red Cross or fire department to see if they have a similar program.</span></div>auldhausdoktorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03678596017791302385noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8209423058070794716.post-42330079688467014012010-12-07T11:49:00.002-05:002015-02-21T08:35:55.296-05:00Great-Grandma's little house<span style="font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"></span><br />
<div class="MainStoryText" style="margin: 0in 0in 6.5pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 120%;">Somehow during the Great Depression, my grandparents managed to come up with enough money to buy a property in Ashtabula County, Ohio near Pymatuning Lake, so that my great-grandparents would have a place to retire to in their golden years.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The house was a post-and-beam cottage, originally built in the 1860’s and then moved to the lot around 1910.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The place was tiny, with only 480 square feet on two floors.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My siblings, cousins, and I loved to spend our summer days out there visiting Great-Grandma in the little house near the lake.</span></div>
<div class="MainStoryText" style="margin: 0in 0in 6.5pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 120%;">In the mid-1960’s, as my grandparents approached their retirement, the family helped add another 240 square feet onto the front of the original structure, for a grand total of 720 square feet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Gramp and Gram lived there happily for 20-odd years after they retired.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Most people today would consider a 720 square foot house far too small for them, but some folks are changing their minds about what their needs require and how they impact the world with their “carbon footprint.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Smaller housing means lower utility costs to heat and illuminate and less money to maintain.</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 120%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0ztZMa7RliZBWIziX2HBcJzjA6OCtEK5KiOZUcAsLv9252UXYM0_aIhBo_2t-4qwX8n1_rFq7CaLSi9DO37tIGhdSHJCMk3HE4ZIYRpy_5A5tJTjnwE5qWgIADzLW0676jhVJ9XQLZyzx/s1600/GrampJim.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0ztZMa7RliZBWIziX2HBcJzjA6OCtEK5KiOZUcAsLv9252UXYM0_aIhBo_2t-4qwX8n1_rFq7CaLSi9DO37tIGhdSHJCMk3HE4ZIYRpy_5A5tJTjnwE5qWgIADzLW0676jhVJ9XQLZyzx/s1600/GrampJim.jpg" height="400" width="396" /></a></span></div>
</div>
<div class="MainStoryText" style="margin: 0in 0in 6.5pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 120%;">With my children gone, I myself am living alone in a 1400 square foot house with my critters (and mortgage).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>While I still have some time before I’m ready to retire, I’m trying to consider my options for finding a smaller place that will be easier for me to maintain and less costly as I age.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I’m hoping I can find a lot in Ashtabula County where I can build (or rebuild) a one-story place, about 500-800 square feet in size and with an outbuilding for a workshop.</span></div>
<div class="MainStoryText" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; margin: 0in 0in 6.5pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 120%;">When I searching the web for house plans last year, I happened upon the website for Jay Shafer and his Tumbleweed Tiny House Company (<u style="text-underline: thick;"><a href="http://www.tumbleweedhouses.com/">http://www.tumbleweedhouses.com/</a></u>).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Jay has been building and living in tiny homes since 1997, and he eventually started a business to sell them.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>According to his site, he currently lives in an 89 square foot house.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(That’s 10 square feet smaller than my kitchen, and I certainly can’t imagine my two 100-pound dogs bumping around in there, too.)<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He holds workshops to train others to build their own homes – there’s even a fifteen year-old Sonoma County (CA) boy building one to use as his housing for college.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Some of the homes are mounted on trailer frames (65-140 square feet) and can be moved whenever the need or desire arises. These homes range in price anywhere from $30,000 to $50,000 if professionally built, and about $15,000 if you build it yourself.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Other plans are available for houses, ranging in size from 250-to-837 square feet that are mounted on a stationary foundation.</span></div>
<div class="MainStoryText" style="margin: 0in 0in 6.5pt;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL2xHriKrx6uUVc1ZQQvVITBofLVY3hHjHIRjitZf_fUmVt0YQd8eaLvPwy0g9C_y_gMX-8FXBtzO8Cxsi7P_6NTDahqUHSqe8_lDHOweEBwjknLuEV5ZkAmoCpkM5Pmw5SjnzY_hKCt2Y/s1600/tumbleweed-houses.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; cssfloat: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL2xHriKrx6uUVc1ZQQvVITBofLVY3hHjHIRjitZf_fUmVt0YQd8eaLvPwy0g9C_y_gMX-8FXBtzO8Cxsi7P_6NTDahqUHSqe8_lDHOweEBwjknLuEV5ZkAmoCpkM5Pmw5SjnzY_hKCt2Y/s320/tumbleweed-houses.jpg" height="240" ox="true" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 120%;">Another site that I find interesting is the Texas Tiny House (<a href="http://www.tinytexashouses.com/">http://www.tinytexashouses.com/</a>). The houses shown on the site are styled to look like 100-plus years old structures.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The site says that 99% of the materials the builder uses are salvaged from old structures and then re-used to build these small houses in Texas.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As their tagline says: “Building the future with the past.”</span></div>
<div class="MainStoryText" style="margin: 0in 0in 6.5pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 120%;">Both Texas Tiny House and Tumbleweed stress “off-grid” living – using composting toilets, propane or wood stoves for heating, and solar panels for both heating and lighting.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They also talk about collecting rainwater for gardening or flushing toilets.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>While I’ve long been interested in alternative sources for energy and heating, I’m still not quite sure I could give up the luxury of a flush toilet in my residence.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Not that I’m being a wimp about it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When my companion Mary and I visit our hiking club’s cabin in New York, we use an outhouse – even though it gets a bit malodorous in the summer and really cold in the winter.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 120%; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 120%;">So I hope to someday have my own 'tiny house,' a structure that is sufficient for simple day-to-day living, as well as an occasional social gathering.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As my family lovingly remembers Great-Grandma’s little house in Williamsfield, maybe someday my great-grandchildren will fondly remember their Granddad’s little rustic place in the country. </span></div>
auldhausdoktorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03678596017791302385noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8209423058070794716.post-28614199548468888802010-10-29T17:35:00.001-04:002015-03-11T22:03:15.853-04:00Civic Duty<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: large;">I have this childhood memory (mid-1950's) of my grandparents’ neighbor, a retired minister whom everyone called ‘Pastor’. He would come out everyday but Sunday--weather permitting; sweep the sidewalk, the storm sewer grates and pick up litter in the street. I remember asking my grandmother why he would do that and her reply was that he did it as a civic duty, that it was just the Pastor’s way of keeping the neighborhood nice. I know I didn’t quite grasp the concept of civic duty at age six, but I took her word for it.<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"> <stroke joinstyle="miter"></stroke></span><formulas><f eqn="if lineDrawn pixelLineWidth 0"></f><f eqn="sum @0 1 0"></f><f eqn="sum 0 0 @1"></f><f eqn="prod @2 1 2"></f><f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelWidth"></f><f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelHeight"></f><f eqn="sum @0 0 1"></f><f eqn="prod @6 1 2"></f><f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelWidth"></f><f eqn="sum @8 21600 0"></f><f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelHeight"></f><f eqn="sum @10 21600 0"></f></formulas><path gradientshapeok="t" o:connecttype="rect" o:extrusionok="f"></path><lock aspectratio="t" v:ext="edit"></lock><shape id="_x0000_s1026" style="height: 100.65pt; margin-left: 68.55pt; margin-top: 225.95pt; position: absolute; width: 77.35pt; z-index: 251658240;" type="#_x0000_t75" wrapcoords="-209 0 -209 21438 21600 21438 21600 0 -209 0"><imagedata o:title="unburiedhydrant" src="file:///C:%5CUsers%5CJKUNSE%7E1.HRR%5CAppData%5CLocal%5CTemp%5Cmsohtmlclip1%5C01%5Cclip_image001.jpg"></imagedata><wrap type="tight"></wrap></shape><span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"><stroke joinstyle="miter"></stroke></span><formulas><f eqn="if lineDrawn pixelLineWidth 0"></f><f eqn="sum @0 1 0"></f><f eqn="sum 0 0 @1"></f><f eqn="prod @2 1 2"></f><f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelWidth"></f><f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelHeight"></f><f eqn="sum @0 0 1"></f><f eqn="prod @6 1 2"></f><f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelWidth"></f><f eqn="sum @8 21600 0"></f><f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelHeight"></f><f eqn="sum @10 21600 0"></f></formulas><path gradientshapeok="t" o:connecttype="rect" o:extrusionok="f"></path><lock aspectratio="t" v:ext="edit"></lock><shape id="_x0000_s1026" style="height: 100.65pt; margin-left: 68.55pt; margin-top: 225.95pt; position: absolute; width: 77.35pt; z-index: 251658240;" type="#_x0000_t75" wrapcoords="-209 0 -209 21438 21600 21438 21600 0 -209 0"><imagedata o:title="unburiedhydrant" src="file:///C:%5CUsers%5CJKUNSE%7E1.HRR%5CAppData%5CLocal%5CTemp%5Cmsohtmlclip1%5C01%5Cclip_image001.jpg"></imagedata><wrap type="tight"></wrap></shape></span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><shape id="_x0000_s1027" style="height: 100.65pt; margin-left: 4.05pt; margin-top: 13.4pt; position: absolute; width: 77.35pt; z-index: 251658240;" type="#_x0000_t75" wrapcoords="-209 0 -209 21438 21600 21438 21600 0 -209 0"><imagedata o:title="unburiedhydrant" src="file:///C:%5CUsers%5CJKUNSE%7E1.HRR%5CAppData%5CLocal%5CTemp%5Cmsohtmlclip1%5C01%5Cclip_image003.jpg"></imagedata><wrap type="tight"></wrap></shape></span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: large;">When I purchased a house on the near west side of Cleveland in 1980, our neighbor across the street wasn’t necessarily a church-going kind of guy. But, Lenny reminded me of the Pastor in the way he would clean the area in front of his property every couple of days with a hose and pushbroom. I started calling him "the Dutch wife" for the way he scrubbed the front of his house. One day, after mowing my lawn, I went over to talk to him about what he was doing. Lenny said it was his way of keeping an eye on the neighborhood kids and keeping his property value up. Ahh! An ulterior motive-- preservation of his investment in his house! From then on, I would join him in cleaning my side of the street whenever I saw him out there.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: large;">Another childhood memory was a fire at a relatives’ house and the firemen had to chop the snow and ice with their axes in order to get to the hydrant. Snowplows clearing the streets a few days before had packed the snow around the hydrant. With the freezing temperatures in the days that followed, the snow acquired a rock-like density. Clearing the snow took several minutes, delayed putting out the fire and the house was a total loss. Had the hydrant been clear when the firemen arrived, I think they could have saved much more of the house.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: large;">My current home in Cleveland Heights is at the low end of our street and has both a fire hydrant and a storm sewer grate out front. During a heavy rain, water will collect in the street and flood the tree lawns if the grates are blocked with leaves or litter. So there’s more an ulterior motive than some sense of civic duty that I make sure the sewer grate is kept clean. It’s to keep my yard from being flooded. During the winter months, I keep the hydrants at home and at my office cleared. The thought of losing the house because the hydrant is blocked is enough motivation for me and it only takes a minute-or-two to do the job. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: large;">So, if you have either sewer grate, a hydrant or both on your property, get out there and spend a little time cleaning them up. The property you save from damage may be your own. Besides, I’d like to think Lenny and the Pastor would be proud of us.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span></div>
auldhausdoktorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03678596017791302385noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8209423058070794716.post-64148332052695291422010-09-28T13:47:00.003-04:002015-03-14T15:40:02.092-04:00Call before you dig!<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: medium;"></span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<div style="border: medium none;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Over 20 years ago, an acquaintance of mine was digging a trench with a backhoe in the Slavic Village neighborhood of Cleveland--when he struck a natural gas line alongside a building. He miraculously survived the resulting explosion that flipped his machine over backwards, but suffered some second and third degree burns. The pipeline he hit was an uncharted line run out to a out-building on the same lot. About ten years later, while trenching for an electrical job, I hit a buried gas pipe to a garage that had been disconnected. But it made me really think about what happened to my acquaintance. So the lesson to me here is that all buried utilities work done on a property should have a permit (with a map) registered with the city building department. </span></div>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<div style="border: medium none;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">The reason for mapping and permits is to ensure that the work is done to code. It is an official record of where the utilities are on the property and at what depth. Don’t believe for a moment that the utilities are buried too deep for you to hit. Over the years since when a house was built; erosion, landscaping, grading or excavating may have changed the depth at which the utilities lie. A friend recently found while digging in her front flower beds that her gas line was only six inches under the soil surface. </span></div>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<div style="border: medium none;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXGABtTgAezObi9eWgqrNF5IJgqTnZHwWaBzICeMYgmleFpYQUhUl1ytmMHPmmO1oJ91Xa9bQxSUTF0qexhKm5_z1k8X5MjEWAy36m4tPIN_zgfJQUQkdQZM1aP4knVWZtTgSGqvpCMGt9/s1600/OUPS4%5B1%5D.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXGABtTgAezObi9eWgqrNF5IJgqTnZHwWaBzICeMYgmleFpYQUhUl1ytmMHPmmO1oJ91Xa9bQxSUTF0qexhKm5_z1k8X5MjEWAy36m4tPIN_zgfJQUQkdQZM1aP4knVWZtTgSGqvpCMGt9/s1600/OUPS4%5B1%5D.jpg" px="true" /></a><shapetype coordsize="21600,21600" filled="f" id="_x0000_t75" o:preferrelative="t" o:spt="75" path="m@4@5l@4@11@9@11@9@5xe" stroked="f"><stroke joinstyle="miter"></stroke><formulas><f eqn="if lineDrawn pixelLineWidth 0"></f><f eqn="sum @0 1 0"></f><f eqn="sum 0 0 @1"></f><f eqn="prod @2 1 2"></f><f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelWidth"></f><f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelHeight"></f><f eqn="sum @0 0 1"></f><f eqn="prod @6 1 2"></f><f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelWidth"></f><f eqn="sum @8 21600 0"></f><f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelHeight"></f><f eqn="sum @10 21600 0"></f></formulas><path gradientshapeok="t" o:connecttype="rect" o:extrusionok="f"></path><lock aspectratio="t" v:ext="edit"></lock></shapetype><shape id="Picture_x0020_1" o:spid="_x0000_s1026" style="height: 114pt; margin-left: -3pt; margin-top: 22.6pt; position: absolute; visibility: visible; width: 182.25pt; z-index: -1;" type="#_x0000_t75" wrapcoords="-178 0 -178 21316 21689 21316 21689 0 -178 0"><imagedata o:title="OUPS4[1]" src="file:///C:%5CUsers%5CJKUNSE%7E1.HRR%5CAppData%5CLocal%5CTemp%5Cmsohtmlclip1%5C01%5Cclip_image001.jpg"></imagedata><wrap type="tight"></wrap></shape><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Many states have organization to protect the public and utility companies from accidents that can cause disaster. Formed in the 1970’s, the Ohio Utilities Protection Service (O.U.P.S., yes you can say “OOPS!”) is a nonprofit that serves as a link for utility companies to contractors and residents planning any digging. Though O.U.P.S. does not physically mark lines, they do convey digging and excavation requests to the member network of utilities and underground facility owners. This network includes, but not limited to: TV cable, gas, electrical, water, sewer and phone companies.</span></div>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">In most of my hometown--Cleveland Heights, the buried utilities (gas, water, sewer) enter the front of the property (from the street) and the overhead utilities (electric, phone, cable) enter from the rear. But that does not hold true for all properties in the city. A corner property for example, may have some or all the buried utilities<b> </b>coming in from the side of the lot. Some newer neighborhoods have all of the utilities buried. It’s quite possible that your neighborhood has a sewer to the rear of the lots as a portion of my street does.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Hey, call before you dig!</span></b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"> An Ohio law says everyone MUST contact O.U.P.S., at least 48 hours but no more than 10 working days (excluding weekends and legal holidays) before beginning any digging or excavation work. The web address is <a href="http://www.oups.org/"><b>www.oups.org</b></a> and the phone number is <b>1-800-362-2764</b> or you can just dial <b>8-1-1</b>. This regulation also applies to smaller or personal projects to include but not limited to digging fencepost holes, anchoring supports for decks and swing sets, planting trees, removing tree roots and driving landscaping or electrical grounding stakes into the ground. For folks outside of Ohio, call your local building department or 'google' the phrase; your state plus "utility protectection service" to find your area service</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">When you call, the staff person will give a reference number for the job. Keep this number with your property records so that you can refer to it at a later date as necessary. It is proof that you made contact with O.U.P.S. and it’s the only way they can look up a past job ticket. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">You will need to indicate the area where you intend to dig. Usually this is done by using white spray paint or white flags to mark the area to be excavated. Be sure to ask what procedures they want you to follow as things do change over time. So next time I see my yellow lab digging in the yard, I’ll guess I’ll have to ask him if he has his O.U.P.S. ticket to start the job.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;"><i>The O.U.P.S. logo and name are trademarks of the Ohio Utilities Protection Service.</i></span></div>
<a href="http://hausdoktor.blogspot.comhttp//hausdoktor.blogspot.com/"></a>auldhausdoktorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03678596017791302385noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8209423058070794716.post-88123308740190380352010-08-10T13:35:00.000-04:002010-08-10T13:35:08.379-04:00Gutter works<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I’ve been spending some time this summer with folks that have gutter problems. The past winter was a banner season in Northeast Ohio for ice dams. As a result, a lot of gutters were bent or damaged, and sometimes the entire fascia board and gutter system came down. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Most gutters in our area were installed using spikes (long nails) and ferrules (hollow tubes spanning the width of the gutter, through which the spikes pass). The spikes are generally spaced approximately 3 to 4 feet apart and are nailed into a fascia board that is only ¾” thick. (Many gutters are still being installed using spikes.) The problem with spikes is that they often back out of the fascia board, allowing the gutter to pull away from the house. So, with a heavy snowfall, the gutter may pull off the house entirely. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />
</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Using a hidden hanger system helps avoid this problem. The hangers hook under the front lip of the gutter and slip over the back gutter wall (see illustration). They are installed using screws that go into the wood 1-1/2 inches. Because the screw is driven home using a ¼” nut driver on a cordless drill, the gutter is also spared the hammer damage that can occur from driving in a spike. Screwing a hidden hanger into each rafter tail (generally 16” on center) will ensure that the gutter can resist the weight of water, snow and ice. </span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpzAIauELoCLKJQ_IiDhr0hULrXaJZ8GyYh23kAH39-Snx8NUO34xuQEmKjcllkNlm6pGDyCJPpA5ow8a7cXg7bFrECFMTFUmrBNzdQT9Nuk3sUZE3zdcSHzH7RJ6CpgAWaU23BzvyeCWT/s1600/IMG_0492.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" mx="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpzAIauELoCLKJQ_IiDhr0hULrXaJZ8GyYh23kAH39-Snx8NUO34xuQEmKjcllkNlm6pGDyCJPpA5ow8a7cXg7bFrECFMTFUmrBNzdQT9Nuk3sUZE3zdcSHzH7RJ6CpgAWaU23BzvyeCWT/s320/IMG_0492.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Gutter problems can also occur when rafter tails (ends) rot out. When that happens, the fascia board that is nailed to it is no longer held securely in place. The remedy is to “sister” a new piece of wood alongside the original rafter, so that the fascia board can be attached to sound wood at each and every rafter tail. The fascia board itself also needs to be solid. If you have to replace a rotted fascia board, prime all sides of the board before you install it. It’s best that you screw the new board in place, rather than nail it, to minimize pull-away.</span></div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Look at the size of your downspouts, too. The usual 2 x 3-inch rectangular downspout is sufficient to carry water from your gutter to the storm sewers. However, if one downspout must transport a large amount of water or if it carries water from an area where several roof sections come together, consider installing 3 x 4-inch downspout. It will double the capacity for water to flow towards the storm sewer. This size downspout may not be available at a retail store, so you may need to go to a specialty shop to find it. </span></div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">If you have to replace the entire gutter as a “do-self” project, I would suggest that you stay away from the gutters found in most retail stores. The aluminum gutter sections available there are only .024 gauge (thinner than most seamless gutters), and are sold only in ten-foot lengths. That means you will have more laps or joints with the potential to develop leaks. Nor should you use plastic gutters; these units simply do not do well with UV light and our wonderful Northeast Ohio winters. </span></div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Heavier-gauge gutters, as well as gutters in longer lengths, are available in specialty shops. These shops generally have equipment that rolls out as much gutter as you need. So, if you need a 26-foot length, they can make it. The hard part is transporting it home. In most shops .027 gauge is common; however, if you can find .032 gauge, it will withstand ice or ladder damage better.</span></div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The pitch (slope) of the gutter only needs to be 1/8” per foot to give a good flow to the downspout. You can tape a ¼” spacer taped onto one end of a two-foot level to give you the right amount of pitch towards the downspout. Then, be sure to caulk all the joints in the gutter to prevent leakage.</span></div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Finally, make sure that all the water carried by your gutters can flow freely away from your house. Check for leaves and other debris that may have clogged your downspouts, and snake any storm sewers blocked by roots that have grown into the pipes under the ground. </span></div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">So, while the weather’s still nice this fall, check out your gutter system. You can prevent a lot of problems later this winter by making sure your gutters and downspouts are in good condition. People don’t believe me when I tell them, “98% of the time, the cause of a wet basement is a leaky gutter system.”</span></div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div></div><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />
</span>auldhausdoktorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03678596017791302385noreply@blogger.com0